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Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 611 total · 5/month
Shared By: David Trippett on Nov 27, 2007
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

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"Guia da Urca" has the details and topos for this route and many others and is available on-line or in Rio.

Revolta is typically approached via As Lacas, making for an 8-10 pitch route but there are other options.

Revolta is a stunning and very steep, sustained flaring thin hands and finger crack that contains few rests. The crux is right at the end, and is unprotectable for 2-3 meters until the chains and the last couple bits of gear may be suspect. The position is spectacular and the climbing engaging and technical.

Due to the very overhanging nature of this route, retreat is difficult, but not impossible with one rope.


The route is on the west face of the Totem.

To find the start walk up through the forest below the Totem and walk along the base to the start of "As Lacas"....but there are several options for approach pitches. Descend via the cable car.


Stoppers, Double cams from green alien to #2 camalot, draws and slings.


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