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Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 330 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Guiseppe Pellegrini, Paulo 'Bruxo' Ferreira, Denise Emmer
Page Views: 1,972 total · 28/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012 with updates
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

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Description

A great short moderate slab climb up the south face of Pao de Acucar. From the summit you can descend or continue up on Costao.

I would recommend bringing a 60 m rope. I brought a 57ish meter rope that was barely long enough for the first pitch.

The route is 2-3 pitches. It's all fairly straightforward 5.6 slab climbing, with a few short vertical moves.

The last two pitches can easily be combined as they are short, but many guiding groups break them up into two pitches since they are a bit tricky, and communication is difficult if done in one pitch.

The last belay is a body belay, or you can tie off a boulder.

Location

On the far east edge of the south face of Pao de Acucar. It is the second obvious line from the right. Access via climbers trail from 1.15 km on paved trail. Break right at the top of the hill.

Protection

12 draws with a couple long runners.

Photos

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