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Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Luis Belivacqua, Alex Pereira, George White, Jean Pierre, 1972
Page Views: 660 total, 10/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

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Description

This is one of the more popular routes up the Totem, the huge pillar leaning on the south face of Pao de Acucar. It is a multi-pitch trad/sport route that has hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing. The first ascent party did it without sticky rubber and at the time it was one of the hardest routes in Brasil.

Location

The Totem is the obvious feature on the south face of the Pao de Acucar. Largartao starts up the big chimney and crack system on the south face of the Totem.

Protection

Bring a single rack from a number 1 camalot to a number 4 to protect the first pitch. The rest of the route is bolt protected, but be ready for some fun run outs.

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