All Locations > International > S America > Brazil > Rio de Janeiro > Urca (Pao de Ac… > Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…

Lagartao

Name: Lagartao
Rating: 3.5

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Via dos Italianos S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type:	Trad, Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Luis Belivacqua, Alex Pereira, George White, Jean Pierre, 1972
Page Views:	1,098 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
Admins:	Tony Yeary, Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is one of the more popular routes up the Totem, the huge pillar leaning on the south face of Pao de Acucar. It is a multi-pitch trad/sport route that has hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing. The first ascent party did it without sticky rubber and at the time it was one of the hardest routes in Brasil.

Location

The Totem is the obvious feature on the south face of the Pao de Acucar. Largartao starts up the big chimney and crack system on the south face of the Totem.

Protection

Bring a single rack from a number 1 camalot to a number 4 to protect the first pitch. The rest of the route is bolt protected, but be ready for some fun run outs.