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Elevation: 4 ft
GPS: -22.9499, -43.1591
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby

Description Suggest change

The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.

Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down a trail to get back to the parking lot.

Getting There Suggest change

There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.

Taxi’s, of course, work too.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Urca (Pao de Acucar area) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
Coringa
Sport 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Reinaldo Behnken
Sport 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 7
Chamine Stop
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Costao
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Luis Arnaud
Sport 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Arco de Noe
Sport 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 49
Via dos Italianos
Sport 9 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Cavalo Louco
Trad 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
As de Espadas
Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Urubunda
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Secundo Costa Neto
Trad, Sport 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coringa Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 3 pitches
Reinaldo Behnken Morro da Babilonia
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 5 pitches
Chamine Stop Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Costao Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Luis Arnaud Morro da Babilonia
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 6 pitches
Arco de Noe Morro da Babilonia
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
Via dos Italianos Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 49
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 9 pitches
Cavalo Louco Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 6 pitches
As de Espadas Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
Urubunda Pedra de Urubu
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Secundo Costa Neto Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Urca (Pao de Acucar area) »

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