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Areas in Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Morro da Babilonia 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Morro da Urca 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 7 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Pedra de Urubu 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.

Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down a trail to get back to the parking lot.

Getting There

There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.

Taxi’s, of course, work too.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Coringa
Sport 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chamine Stop
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Costao
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Luis Arnaud
Sport 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via dos Italianos
Sport 9 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
As de Espadas
Sport 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Secundo Costa Neto
Trad, Sport 10 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo)
Trad, Sport 10 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lagartao
Trad, Sport 8 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via do Totem
Trad, Sport 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coringa Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 3 pitches
Chamine Stop Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Costao Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Luis Arnaud Morro da Babilonia 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 6 pitches
Via dos Italianos Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 9 pitches
As de Espadas Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
Secundo Costa Neto Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport 10 pitches
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 10 pitches
Lagartao Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 8 pitches
Via do Totem Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Urca (Pao de Acucar area) »

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Photos

Andrea Cockfield
Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
Andrea Cockfield   Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
There is a spectacular new guidebook with English translation titled, "50 Classic Routes in Brazil" that includes 7 classics in Rio de Janeiro alone. Available here: companhiadaescalada.com.br/…
AND a limited supply at Rock and Snow in New Paltz! Nov 9, 2017
Cedric BG
New York, New York
Cedric BG   New York, New York
You can buy a guidebook at the newspaper stand at the entrance to the Urca area -- the roundabout where the cable car leaves for Pao de Acucar.

In 2015, the guidebook costs 50 reals (about $17 USD at the time). The guy selling the book didn't know anything about the area, and doesn't speak English. Just ask for "Guia da Escalada" (think that's right!)

The guidebook is all in Portuguese, but the topos, and basic descriptions, are fairly easy to understand. Apr 14, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
This info needs to be consolidated with the existing information for Urca. Admins? Apr 7, 2012

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