Elevation: 4 ft
GPS: -22.95, -43.159 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,643 total · 229/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden
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Description

The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.

Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down a trail to get back to the parking lot.

Getting There

There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.

Taxi’s, of course, work too.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Urca (Pao de Acucar area) »

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Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
This info needs to be consolidated with the existing information for Urca. Admins? Apr 7, 2012
Cedric BG
New York, NY
Cedric BG   New York, NY
You can buy a guidebook at the newspaper stand at the entrance to the Urca area -- the roundabout where the cable car leaves for Pao de Acucar.

In 2015, the guidebook costs 50 reals (about $17 USD at the time). The guy selling the book didn't know anything about the area, and doesn't speak English. Just ask for "Guia da Escalada" (think that's right!)

The guidebook is all in Portuguese, but the topos, and basic descriptions, are fairly easy to understand. Apr 14, 2015
Andrea Cockfield
Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
Andrea Cockfield   Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
There is a spectacular new guidebook with English translation titled, "50 Classic Routes in Brazil" that includes 7 classics in Rio de Janeiro alone. Available here: companhiadaescalada.com.br/…
AND a limited supply at Rock and Snow in New Paltz! Nov 9, 2017