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Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 38.48742, -120.22818
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 136,945 total · 644/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

This is the big dome, south of the Mokelumne River. Its 2000 foot face offers a variety of routes ranging from single pitch, to epic 19 pitch endure fests. There are slabs, splitter cracks, face routes, offwidths, grade V aid climbs and routes with nearly all of those bundled into one. Most of the routes were established from the ground up, and have that particular spice to them. So be weary when choosing your agenda for the day as the nearest ambulance is a good hour and a half away.

Most routes are set up to be able to rappel using two 60m ropes. Some can be done with just one, but its generally a good idea to bring up two ropes on most routes. 

Watch out for poison oak.

Getting There Suggest change

The approach is obvious, but...

A little more beta for how to approach the two most visited parts of Cal Dome:

1) If you are climbing War of the Walls/Old Smokey area: drive over the bridge. Drive about a half mile to a mile, keeping an eye out for cement block with a metal pole on the left of the road. The trail to head up is about 10 feet before this landmark.

2) if you are climbing sands of time/silk road area: go beyond the metal pole landmark (maybe 100-300 yard more?) Look for a kerns right by the road. Follow the trail till it hits Cal Dome. Continue on the trail left to the base of Silk Road/Sands of Time.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Calaveras Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Calaveras Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Old Smokey
Trad 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
Sands of Time
Trad 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 5
Beacons to Mars
Trad 10 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 97
Wall of the Worlds
Trad 9 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 19
Schizophrenic Dike
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
The Emerald
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Mr. Stiffy
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 50
Silk Road (High Times)
Trad 14 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Fine Line
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 4
Karakoram Highway
Trad 19 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Sierra Oro
Trad 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old Smokey 3. N Face Apron
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 7 pitches
Sands of Time 1. Northeast Face
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Beacons to Mars 3. N Face Apron
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 10 pitches
Wall of the Worlds 2. Central Dome
 97
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 9 pitches
Schizophrenic Dike 1. Northeast Face
 19
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
The Emerald 1. Northeast Face
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Mr. Stiffy 1. Northeast Face
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Silk Road (High Times) 1. Northeast Face
 50
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 14 pitches
Fine Line 1. Northeast Face
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Karakoram Highway 1. Northeast Face
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 19 pitches
Sierra Oro 2. Central Dome
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Calaveras Dome »

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