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Routes in Calaveras Dome

Fallen Angel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fine Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King Kong T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layin' On The Hands T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medicine Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 R
Mighty Joe Young T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Stiffy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Smokey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sands of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schizophrenic Dike T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silk Road (High Times) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wall of the Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,040 total, 31/month
Shared By: Vlad S on Mar 9, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Awesome finger crack that mostly follows a water groove, but also has a bunch of dikes and knobs thrown in for good measure when the crack thins out. You are going to want to follow the description for Schizophrenic Dike to get up to this pitch. The best way to approach it would be to climb the 3 pitches including the Schizophrenic Dike and rap down to the anchor at the start of Mr. Stiffy over to the left. From here follow the left trending finger crack that starts and ends very thin, but has easier climbing in the middle with several wider pods. The crux at the start protects well with a bomber 00 C3. Save the 0 and 000 C3 for the cruxy move at the end. RP would work as well.

To descend, there's supposed to be a bolted anchor going straight down, but I didn't manage to find it. You can swing back to the beginning of the pitch with some difficulty and a few directionals. From there do a short (50 ft) rap to the anchor below and one more long rap to the ground.

Location

80 feet left of the Silk Road corner and 3 pitches up near the left edge of Laughing Hyena arch.

Protection

RPs or smallest C3s from 000 to 1. Double set from #0.3 to #1 and single #2 camalot. One bolt a 1/3 of the way up. 2 ropes.

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