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> Calaveras Domes
> Calaveras Dome
> 1. Northeast Face
Mr. Stiffy
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 5
votes
Routes in 1. Northeast Face
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5.9 Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Banzai T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1-2 |
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Big 1, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blockhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cal Fest S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cal Ripken T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cali Cartel T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Emerald, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eraserhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Fault Line T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Fine Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Free Fallling S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karakoram Highway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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King Kong T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laughing Hyena T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mighty Joe Young T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Stiffy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Orphan Train T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rainbows End T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rastaman Vibrations. T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Resurrection S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sands of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Schizophrenic Dike T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Silk Road (High Times) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Totally Buzzed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,437 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Vlad S on Mar 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Awesome finger crack that mostly follows a water groove, but also has a bunch of dikes and knobs thrown in for good measure when the crack thins out. You are going to want to follow the description for Schizophrenic Dike to get up to this pitch. The best way to approach it would be to climb the 3 pitches including the Schizophrenic Dike and rap down to the anchor at the start of Mr. Stiffy over to the left. From here follow the left trending finger crack that starts and ends very thin, but has easier climbing in the middle with several wider pods. The crux at the start protects well with a bomber 00 C3. Save the 0 and 000 C3 for the cruxy move at the end. RP would work as well.
To descend, there's supposed to be a bolted anchor going straight down, but I didn't manage to find it. You can swing back to the beginning of the pitch with some difficulty and a few directionals. From there do a short (50 ft) rap to the anchor below and one more long rap to the ground.
To descend, there's supposed to be a bolted anchor going straight down, but I didn't manage to find it. You can swing back to the beginning of the pitch with some difficulty and a few directionals. From there do a short (50 ft) rap to the anchor below and one more long rap to the ground.
2 Comments