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Routes in Calaveras Dome

Fallen Angel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fine Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King Kong T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layin' On The Hands T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medicine Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 R
Mighty Joe Young T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Stiffy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Smokey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sands of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schizophrenic Dike T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silk Road (High Times) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wall of the Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 230 total, 7/month
Shared By: Gargano on May 11, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

King Kong is aptly named for the terrific reachy moves through the upper undercling roof and finishing corner. Handcrack, mantles, stem corner, undercling roof and face: this pitch packs it all in 100 feet.

Begin in a gently overhanging handcrack located on the right wall of the prominent left-facing corner. Pull around the arete and follow lower angle cracks through a series of blocky mantles to a stance below a clean left-facing stem corner. Ascend the golden corner to a stance beneath the final roof. Ape your way out the undercling roof (2 bolts) and face the crux moves guarding the anchor.

Think to yourself: what would King Kong do?

Location

King Kong is located on the Totally Buzzed Pinnacle in the Lost World area - east and uphill of Hourglass Buttress. Hike to the base of Sands of Time/Silk Road. Continue left (east) and uphill along the base of Cal Dome. Pass Hyena Arch and Rainbow Arch. When you approach the third arch begin looking for the routes. They're just uphill and beyond a large detached flake that forms a cave/walk-through at the base of the dome. Look for a prominent left-facing corner and a bolted dike on the face directly to the left. This is Totally Buzzed Pinnacle.

King Kong begins in a slightly overhanging handcrack on the right wall of the large left-facing corner.

~45-60 minutes from road.

Protection

Doubles to 1.5". Optional singles to 3".

Fixed anchor.

100' rap to ground. 60m rope stretcher - watch ends.

Photos

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