Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Calaveras Dome

Fallen Angel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fine Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King Kong T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layin' On The Hands T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medicine Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 R
Mighty Joe Young T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Stiffy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Smokey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sands of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schizophrenic Dike T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silk Road (High Times) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wall of the Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,713 total · 48/month
Shared By: Vlad S on Mar 9, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Is it a crack? Is it a dike? One of the best pitches at Calveras Dome and it's a geological gem! It sits a few pitches up under the Laughing Hyenas arch and finishes at the apex of the arch. You have to climb two pitches to access it - each deserving about 2 quality stars. The easiest option:

1. 160 ft, 10b. This is the first pitch of Rastaman Vibrations. Start on a right trending ramp just right of the bolted routes, then mantle up and follow another left trending ramp until you get to the tricky corner/arete. Here you can either climb straight up with questionable gear or better bust out left to the bolts and follow them up. Clip a head or two higher up in between the bolts to arrive at a comfy stance with a bolted anchor.
2. Here Rastaman splits to the right via a 5.12 finger crack. Another 50 ft 10b pitch with a short crux leads up and left to the 2nd set of anchors. This is probably the 2nd pitch of Laughing Hyenas.
3. At this point you have 3 options all of which are stellar. The arching layback of Laughing Hyenas is 11c with no move easier or harder than about 10+/11-. Wicked pump awaits. Schizophrenic Dike traverses left to an obvious bolt at the start of the dike and follows that all the way up to the same anchor. You'll get another bolt at the very end of the pitch for the tricky crux. 150 ft, 10c.

The 3rd option is to traverse hard left at 5.8 clipping 1 bolt along the way to another bolted anchor and the start of Mr. Stiffy - an awesome 11a finger crack. This traverse is easy to skip by rapping straight down from Schizophrenic Dike anchor.

To descend rap straight down to one of two anchors with rings on either side of the "V-dihedral" with two ropes or rap to the left and climb Mr. Stiffy.

Location

50 feet left of Silk Road corner and 2 pitches up.

Protection

Doubles to #1 camalot, single #2 camalot with emphasis on very thin. RPs are useful. 10 draws. 2 ropes.

Photos

Pavel K
 
Pavel K  
 
P1: I second the recommendation to use the bolts to the left of the crack system for protection. in 10/2017 there were also two fixed old nuts on P1.

P3: The actual dike. Small nuts can be very helpful. Difficulty dependent on finger size. I think I ended up pinching the dike most of the way up.... Oct 31, 2017

More About Schizophrenic Dike

Printer-Friendly Guide