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Routes in Calaveras Dome

Fallen Angel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fine Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King Kong T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layin' On The Hands T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medicine Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 R
Mighty Joe Young T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Stiffy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Smokey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sands of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schizophrenic Dike T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silk Road (High Times) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wall of the Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 296 total, 9/month
Shared By: Gargano on May 11, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Mighty Joe Young climbs the prominent left-facing corner of Totally Buzzed Pinnacle. From below the corner looks a little mungy, but it climbs well and is plenty clean. Even the moss at the top of the route doesn't get in the way of features or protection.

Follows the corner until the crack peters out. Head up and left through a strenuous crux bulge (1 bolt). Continue left to the anchor shared with Fine Line (11c).

Presumably named after the 1949 film 'Mighty Joe Young'. "The story of a young woman, Jill Young, living on her father's ranch in Africa, who has raised the title character, a giant gorilla, from an infant and years later brings him to Hollywood to seek their fortune so she can save her family homestead." - the reputable Wikipedia

Location

Mighty Joe Young is located on the Totally Buzzed Pinnacle in the Lost World area - east and uphill of Hourglass Buttress. Hike to the base of Sands of Time/Silk Road. Continue left (east) and uphill along the base of Cal Dome. Pass Hyena Arch and Rainbow Arch. When you approach the third arch begin looking for the routes. They're just uphill and beyond a large detached flake that forms a cave/walk-through at the base of the dome. Look for a prominent left-facing corner and a bolted dike on the face directly to the left. This is Totally Buzzed Pinnacle.

Mighty Joe Young climbs the prominent left-facing corner.

~45-60 minutes from road.

Protection

Doubles to 1.5"

Fixed Anchor. 80' rap to ground.

Photos

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