Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jay Smith and friends
Page Views: 11,924 total · 137/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd M. on Oct 14, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 closure Details

Description

An under-rated classic. If this climb was in Yosemite there would be lines of people waiting to get on it daily. Many pitches could be linked with a 70 meter rope, and multiple link ups with other climbs are possible.

Pitch 1 and 2 (5.11).  Start up the face below a roof, just left of the crack system in the corner. 80 ft  (5.10c). Than a short 5.11 pitch on bolted slab. Traverses to climber's right and shares the first belay with first pitch of Sands of Time. It is also possible to climb Sands of Time or link these pitches into one with a 60 M rope.

Pitch 3 (5.10c). Start up the lie back in a left facing corner. Reach around the corner, clip a bolt, make a traverse into the neighboring left facing corner and make several more thin moves to a belay station.

Pitch 4 (5.10b). Climb up and left below a roof. Place some protection which does not look too encouraging behind a thin flake. Do a hand traverse on a dike for a few moves to a belay station a little further left. Taller people could use a "hole" as a good rest stance. Pitches 2 and 3 link with a 60M rope.

Pitch 5 (5.10b). A LONG and very sustained lie-back corner. No moves harder than 5.10b, but not many easier.

Pitch 6 and 7(5.9). A needed break from sustained climbing. Ascend up the left facing corner and traverse into another left facing crack system to the left. After a step across it is possible to belay at a base of another corner. It is logical to link these pitches since next corner is fairly short.

Pitch 8 (5.11b/c)  bolted face/slab. Had two cruxy sections. One lower (5.11) on the pitch and one higher (5.11b/c) up. After you are done with face climbing traverse left under a roof to a bolted belay station. Don't forget to place some pieces here to protect your second.

Pitch 9 (5.10d). Undercling and lie back a left leaning roof. Stemming provides you with needed rest for placing protection.

Pitch 10  (5.11). Money pitch. One of the coolest pitches you will ever climb. Lie back up a LONG corner. At some point the corner will pinch closed and you will be forced to stem and palm your way up to decent jug. Sustained pitch does not let you off the hook till you make final moves to a belay station.

P11 5.10b - 75 Step right and slab and layback up the arete. A close belay is necessary here since blowing it would put you back on the ledge. Follow a series of delicate moves on small knobs past spaced bolts. Once you reach a good foot rail tall climbers will be able to reach straight up and pull up to victory. For shorter climbers the best option is to travese left on small footholds until you can reach a crack that leads to the ledge above. Another exposed belay with two bolts on top of the East Tibetan Tower. It is possible to rap straight down from here to the base of P10.

Can rap the route from here with two 60M ropes, continue to the top, or link it to Karakoram Highway and Rastaman Vibrations.

Pitch 12,  4th class. Traverse right on War Lord Ledge.

Pitch 13,  5.9. Climb up a left leaning crack/dike to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 14,  5.8. Climb face/slab to a bolt and up to a ledge. Continue up the series of right facing corners to the top. Ascend 4th class to the top of formation.

Location

Starts on the left side of Hourglass Buttress and ascends just left of “Sands of Time.” Approach from the road takes about 20 minutes.

Protection

Double set of cams from small to BD #2. Single BD #3 is sufficient and BD #4 is VERY optional. Three cams of smaller size .3-.5 would be useful for long lie back. Medium and small nuts are very useful.

Route has bolted belay stations, and can be rappelled with two 60 meter ropes!

Photos