Sierra Oro

A modern route connecting dikes, slabs, and small cracks with a devious crux that can be aided.

Approach: Walk past the inviting splitter that is pitch one of War of the Walls. Continue a short distance 3rd-classing down and across ledges passing the water polished right facing corner that is the start of Shakin all Over. A very short distance further leads to the somewhat in-obvious start of Sierra Oro. Look for a small left facing arch with a horizontal crack above it. The start is just right of a small bush and left of a much larger bush.

Pitch one: Climb the short left facing arch turning the mini roof and then move right along the horizontal crack. Next, climb the (bushy?) right diagonaling finger and thin hand crack to easier ground. Climb the bulge above (bolt) moving right to the bolted belay 5.10 35m

Pitch two: Reachy move off the anchor then trending left to a long and bolted dike. Easier ground (finger sized gear) leads to comfy belay ledge 5.11- 43m

Pitch three: Move right up vegetated ramp to a left diagonal dike. Three bolts along dike leads to an immaculate thin finger crack that gobbles your tiny gear. Belay on small sloping ledge 5.11 35m

Pitch four: Up knobs to a thin left diagonal dike clipping many bolts eventually meeting a small roof. Undercling right a short ways until it’s possible to turn the roof. A very technical sequence hampers access to the small right facing corner above, can be easily aided. Fun knob climbing leads to bolted anchor. 5.12+ or 5.11/A0 45m Gear: .3-.75 & all draws/slings

Pitch five: Take a leftwards dike walk clipping five bolts before wandering up the knobby bolted face above 5.10r 60m

Pitch six: From the belay move left on the dike before questing up easy featured face 5.7R 60m

Pitch seven: Easy runout low angled slab (one bolt) leads to good ledge 5.5R 40m

Pitch eight: Up and left on slabby face (bolts) to some right facing corners and flakes. More face climbing leads to decent stance 5.8R 70m

Pitch nine: Up black slab passing a couple ledges finishing on right side of huge see-through flake 5.8R 65m

Descent: All belays are bolted and equipped for rappelling (70m ropes)

Approach: Walk past the inviting splitter that is pitch one of War of the Walls. Continue a short distance 3rd-classing down and across ledges passing the water polished right facing corner that is the start of Shakin all Over. A very short distance further leads to the somewhat in-obvious start of Sierra Oro. Look for a small left facing arch with a horizontal crack above it. The start is just right of a small bush and left of a much larger bush.