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Routes in The Headwall

Cameltoe S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Donamatrix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Ghastly Rubberfat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headwall Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rain of Terror S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rappel Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Sleazy Street S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spice Box S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Walk Up, The S 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Sport, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Trainor, Manny Rangel
Page Views: 4,944 total, 37/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

I liked the first bolt on pitch two, it protects groundfall potential on a ramp and the 3rd bolt is on great rock for clipping. Right after that it gets steep and cruxy. Well bolted and on great rock, it is one of the best I have been on in camelback.

It is next to one of the scariest routes on camelback, The Icebox 5.8x. It actually shares one of the bolts up high. The Icebox is the dihedral, very soft rock, just to this route's left.

Location

Walk to the end of the Headwall and begin on the white granite just right of the dihedral/gully. P1 has 2 bolts, p2 has 12 bolts, p3 has 3 (?). Rap the route with single 60m rope. If you rap from the top, the first rap is a short one to the top of the 2nd pitch. Watch the ends at the second/longest rap.

Protection

12 quickdraws/runners, ss glue-in bolts and anchors.
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.10b
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.10b
Fun route, but just a heads up you will need 14 draws for the second and longest pitch. The first pitch is two bolts, and so is the third. PS right before the belay on the top of the second pitch I encountered a snake, so keep your eyes open. Oct 17, 2015
Clayton S.
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Clayton S.   Scottsdale, AZ
 
Best rock on Camelback, wish the whole mountain was like this. First "pitch" is an oxymoron 20ft 5.6 jug haul to a large ledge. Second pitch is fun and sporty with ample pro. Tops out about 30 feet down hill from Aerial Combat/Unknown routes on the Gargoyle Wall. May 8, 2015
Kaleo
  5.10-
Kaleo  
  5.10-
Fun Route, bolts are good, well protected. Thanks for the climb!

We rappelled with a 60m from the bolts at the top of pitch 2, just made it to the ground. Feb 5, 2012
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
Kudos to the FAs!! its a quality route for camel back. good work!! For the valley i'd say its a must at that grade. Nov 23, 2010
Trev
Maricopa, AZ
  5.10a
Trev   Maricopa, AZ
  5.10a
Great climb for camelback, i don't know if i would put a 5.10b rating on this. I used a 70m rope because of the second pitch. I would not use a 60m, That would be cutting it kinda close. Oct 27, 2010
Nat Shultz
Cottonwood Heights
Nat Shultz   Cottonwood Heights
Super fun route. The best I've climbed on Camelback yet. Most quality rock as well. I'd call it a soft 5.10 and well protected. Have no reservations about it, just climb it an enjoy. A single 60m rope works great for the rap if you do it in 3.

Go get on it! Viva Camelback! And thanks Manny for another clasic! Mar 21, 2010
bsocks
Peoria, AZ
bsocks   Peoria, AZ
Fun climb, did not seem 5.10 quality. Middle of second pitch is crux. The rock will push you right, stay to the left and follow the bolts. Dec 4, 2009
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
I would recommend a 70m rope or doubles to ensure a safe return to the ground from the longest/2nd pitch.

My 4 star rating is based on other Camelback routes only. Nov 11, 2009
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
Best climb on Camelback! If soloing, don't use lower bolts for bottom pro with 60 m rope as it's a long way down... Jun 15, 2009