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Routes in Pico Maior

Leste (East) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mundo da Lua T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 7,760 ft
Shared By: Christian Storms on Jul 18, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden
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Description

Pico Maior, the is the highest mountain in the sierra at 7760 feet, offers 2300 feet granite walls mixing all climbing styles in routes ranging from 8-19 pitches. Some pitches are on vertical walls with huge feldspar crystals protruding from the many pegmatite dikes.
The East Face of Pico Major – the route known as Leste or East in Portuguese – is considered the most classic route. It is graded at 5.9 or 4° V A1E3.
The Arco da Velha route set up in 1986 is a great option for those more experienced climbers.

Major routes include:
Leste (East) 4° V A1E3 (Pico Maior)
Arco da Velha 6° VI+ (Pico Maior)
Pontão do Sol 5° VI + (Pico Maior)
Variante Psylocybis 3° (Pico Maior)

Getting There

The nearest two is Nova Friburgo. To get to here, Drive toward the Sierra to Nova Friburgo then follow the road to Teresópolis until km 46. Turn at the sign "Salinas, São Lourenço, Barracão de Mendes". From this point is just follow the signs to "Três Picos" and drive more 5km approximately to reach the park access and some mountain lodges.
Actual roads are:
Cross Rio-Niterói bridge (14 km) to Niterói. Take BR-101 North to Itaboraí. Take RJ-116 (Rota 116) to Cachoeiros de Macacu to Nova Friburgo. Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis. In 30 km turn to Salinas valley at left. Go to Conquista District then
Santa Cruz District then São Lourenço District. Turn to right to IBELGA School to the end of the road.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pico Maior

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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