Elevation: 6,412 ft
GPS: 36.565, -118.773 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 476,405 total · 5,562/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on May 17, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

The Area: Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park (SEKI) is a land of giants. Near or within it's borders lie the largest trees on earth (Sequoias), the highest mountain in the contiguous United States (Mount Whitney), arguably the deepest river canyon in North America (Kings below Spanish Mountain), the tallest granite dome in the Sierra (Tehipite), the longest cave in California (Lilburn), and steepest river in the United States (Kaweah). Scattered throughout these superlatives are high quality climbing areas where you can enjoy the beauty of these parks in relative solitude.

To keep things organized, this area covers the climbing that is accessed from the west side of the parks. The highest peaks, Sierra crest and northern areas of King Canyon should be in the "High Sierra" area until a better system is in place.

Climbing: The climbing is excellent and a bit more spread out than it's neighbor to the north, Yosemite. Some rocks are virtually roadside with five minute approaches, while other formations will take at least one full day to get to and test the endurance of the strongest legs and lungs. The resulting experience is similar to what the original explorers of the area got to enjoy; solitude. The rocks are mostly composed of solid granite, with some marble and other forms scattered throughout the park. No matter your climbing style there is enough variety for you to find something to enjoy. Dozens of areas offer slab, steep face, big wall, cracks, alpine, and even a bit of sport climbing.

Many of the major formations were first climbed around the same time Yosemite was getting developed, and by some familiar names such as Robbins, Rowell and Beckey. Most of the modern routes were pioneered through the 80's and 90's by a handful of strong climbers including, but not limited to, Herb Laeger, Richard Leversee, Eddie Joe and David Hickey.

The only guide for the region, "Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia Kings Canyon," is long out of print and costs a pretty penny online. Many routes have been put up by park employees and a few other folks since the book was published in 1993, so some exploring will reveal many more developed routes than most people think. That being said, there are still miles of untouched rock for those willing to earn it.

If you're looking for somewhere to explore, get the wilderness experience, and enjoy some awesome climbing, this is the place to be!

PS: For some cool history, stories, topos and photos of this and surrounding areas visit southernsierraclimber.blogs… and vertical20.com/

Also, a small online guide that continually gets updated can be found at sekiclimbing.com/

Weather and Roads

SEKI is the same as most of the Sierra; hot dry summers and cold snowy winters. This means that some roads get closed in the winter, but there is climbing at at least one of the areas year-round.

Visit the SEKI website for updated road and weather conditions at
nps.gov/seki/index.htm

Getting There

To access most areas in the Kings Canyon half of the park take Highway 180 out of Fresno. For the southern Sequoia areas the best approach is via highway 198 out of Visalia. A few backcountry spots around the Obelisk are accessed from trailheads near Wishon Reservoir. If you need more specific directions ask Google Maps for help.

348 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4 M4-5 Easy Snow
 7
Moonage Daydream
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Saber Ridge traverse, south to n…
Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
South Face
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
 9
The Regular Route (Castle Rock S…
Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
The Subliminal Verses
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
 4
East Face
Trad, Aid, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Four Kings
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Kitty From Hell
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Tokopah Reality
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Krymptonite
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Astro-Gil
Trad 11 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Wild West Crack
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Big Time
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Meteora
Trad 8 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 8
Modern Guilt
Trad 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Moonage Daydream Tokopah Valley > Watchtower
 7
WI4 M4-5 Easy Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Saber Ridge traverse, south… Tamarack Lake Area > Saber Ridge
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
South Face Moro Rock (SEKI) > S Face
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 8 pitches
The Regular Route (Castle R… Castle Rocks > Castle Rock Spire
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
The Subliminal Verses Hamilton Lakes… > Hamilton Dome
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
East Face Castle Rocks > Castle Rock Spire
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 Trad, Aid, Alpine 5 pitches
Four Kings Danland > Four Kings
 4
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Kitty From Hell Chimney Rocks > Chimney Spire
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Tokopah Reality Tokopah Valley > Lower Tokopah Dome
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Krymptonite Panther Peak
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Astro-Gil Tehipite Dome
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 11 pitches
Wild West Crack Hamilton Lakes… > Serpent's Tooth
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Big Time Tokopah Valley > Watchtower
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Meteora Moro Rock (SEKI) > W Face
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 8 pitches
Modern Guilt Moro Rock (SEKI) > W Face
 8
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP »

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