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Areas in Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

Big Baldy 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Buck Rock 1 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Castle Rocks 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 3 / 4
Chimney Rocks 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Cliff Creek Canyon 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4
Danland 28 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 29
Gorge of Despair, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 9
Hospital Rock Area 15 / 0 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Kaweah Lake 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Kings Canyon 9 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 12
Little Baldy 10 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Lower Tokopah Dome 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 6
Moro Rock (SEKI) 15 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 19
Neat Wall 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Obelisk, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Panther Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Santa Cruz Dome 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Sequoia & Kings Canyon Bouldering 0 / 0 / 1 / 63 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 64
Tamarack Lake Area 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Tehipite Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Watchtower, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 4 / 4
Elevation: 6,413 ft
GPS: 36.565, -118.773 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: limpingcrab on May 17, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

The Area: Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park (SEKI) is a land of giants. Near or within it's borders lie the largest trees on earth (Sequoias), the highest mountain in the contiguous United States (Mount Whitney), arguably the deepest river canyon in North America (Kings below Spanish Mountain), the tallest granite dome in the Sierra (Tehipite), the longest cave in California (Lilburn), and steepest river in the United States (Kaweah). Scattered throughout these superlatives are high quality climbing areas where you can enjoy the beauty of these parks in relative solitude.

To keep things organized, this area covers the climbing that is accessed from the west side of the parks. The highest peaks, Sierra crest and northern areas of King Canyon should be in the "High Sierra" area until a better system is in place.

Climbing: The climbing is excellent and a bit more spread out than it's neighbor to the north, Yosemite. Some rocks are virtually roadside with five minute approaches, while other formations will take at least one full day to get to and test the endurance of the strongest legs and lungs. The resulting experience is similar to what the original explorers of the area got to enjoy; solitude. The rocks are mostly composed of solid granite, with some marble and other forms scattered throughout the park. No matter your climbing style there is enough variety for you to find something to enjoy. Dozens of areas offer slab, steep face, big wall, cracks, alpine, and even a bit of sport climbing.

Many of the major formations were first climbed around the same time Yosemite was getting developed, and by some familiar names such as Robbins, Rowell and Beckey. Most of the modern routes were pioneered through the 80's and 90's by a handful of strong climbers including, but not limited to, Herb Laeger, Richard Leversee, Eddie Joe and David Hickey.

The only guide for the region, "Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia Kings Canyon," is long out of print and costs a pretty penny online. Many routes have been put up by park employees and a few other folks since the book was published in 1993, so some exploring will reveal many more developed routes than most people think. That being said, there are still miles of untouched rock for those willing to earn it.

If you're looking for somewhere to explore, get the wilderness experience, and enjoy some awesome climbing, this is the place to be!

PS: For some cool history, stories, topos and photos of this and surrounding areas visit http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/ and http://www.vertical20.com/

Also, a small online guide that continually gets updated can be found at http://www.sekiclimbing.com/
Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Weather and Roads

SEKI is the same as most of the Sierra; hot dry summers and cold snowy winters. This means that some roads get closed in the winter, but there is climbing at at least one of the areas year-round.

Visit the SEKI website for updated road and weather conditions at
http://www.nps.gov/seki/index.htm

Getting There

To access most areas in the Kings Canyon half of the park take Highway 180 out of Fresno. For the southern Sequoia areas the best approach is via highway 198 out of Visalia. A few backcountry spots around the Obelisk are accessed from trailheads near Wishon Reservoir. If you need more specific directions ask Google Maps for help.

228 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4 M4-5
Moonage Daydream
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
V0 4
Hay Ride
Boulder
V0 4
Augustus McCrae
Boulder
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Mt. Harrington, North Ridge
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saber Ridge traverse, south to north
Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wall of Early Morning Fright
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire)
Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Little Baldy
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kitty From Hell
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mango Lassi Lulz Machine
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Krymptonite
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Astro-Gil
Trad 11 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valkyrie
Trad 17 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Modern Guilt
Trad 10 pitches
Moonage Daydream Watchtower WI4 M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Hay Ride Sequoia & Kings C… > … 1 > Northwest Lot > NW lot - misc problems list V0 4 Boulder
Augustus McCrae Sequoia & Kings C… > … 1 > Northwest Lot > NW lot - misc problems list V0 4 Boulder
Mt. Harrington, North Ridge Gorge of Despair 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad
Saber Ridge traverse, south… Tamarack Lake Area > Saber Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
South Face Moro Rock (SEKI) 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 8 pitches
Wall of Early Morning Fright Chimney Rocks > Chimney Spire 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Regular Route (Castle R… Castle Rocks > Castle Rock Spire 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
Welcome to Little Baldy Little Baldy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Kitty From Hell Chimney Rocks > Chimney Spire 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Mango Lassi Lulz Machine Lower Tokopah Dome 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Krymptonite Panther Peak 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Astro-Gil Tehipite Dome 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 11 pitches
Valkyrie Hamilton Lakes an… > Angel Wings 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 17 pitches
Modern Guilt Moro Rock (SEKI) 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP »

Weather Averages

High
 
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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Chad N
Three Rivers, CA
Chad N   Three Rivers, CA
Here is the link to any current rock climbing closures in the park(s)
nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… Apr 29, 2014

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