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Areas in Salinas / Três Picos

Capacete 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Morro do Gato 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pico Maior 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 7,760 ft
GPS: -22.339, -42.724 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Christian Storms on Jul 18, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden
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Description

If you ever wondered what the Yosemite Valley might have been like in the 1970s, this might be your chance to experience it in real time. Some of the longest and most impressive routes in Brazil are found here.
This region, also called "Salinas", is located in the Parque Estadual dos Três Picos (Três Picos State Park) which is the biggest state park in Rio de Janeiro, with 46,350 hectares (114,533 acres).
Known for its long traditional climbs, this area offers over 100 routes ranging from 1-19 pitches.
There are four main peaks. They are Maior, Médio and Menor (Big, Medium and Small) and Capacete (helmet).
Pico Maior, the is the highest mountain in the sierra at 7760 feet, offers 2300 feet granite walls mixing all climbing styles in routes ranging from 8-19 pitches. Some pitches are on vertical walls with huge feldspar crystals protruding from the many pegmatite dikes.
The East Face of Pico Major – the route known as Leste or East in Portuguese – is considered the most classic route. It is graded at 5.9 or 4° V A1E3.
The Arco da Velha route set up in 1986 is a great option for those more experienced climbers.
Major routes include:
Leste (East) 4° V A1E3 (Pico Maior)
Arco da Velha 6° VI+ (Pico Maior)
Pontão do Sol 5° VI + (Pico Maior)
Variante Psylocybis 3° (Pico Maior)
Chaminé Pellegrini 6° VI (Pico Menor)
Devaneios do Repouso 6° VII (Capacete)
Sol da Meia Noite 4° V + E3 (Capacete)
CERJ 10 pitches 5.10 (Capacete)

Getting There

The nearest two is Nova Friburgo. To get to here, Drive toward the Sierra to Nova Friburgo then follow the road to Teresópolis until km 46. Turn at the sign "Salinas, São Lourenço, Barracão de Mendes". From this point is just follow the signs to "Três Picos" and drive more 5km approximately to reach the park access and some mountain lodges.
Actual roads are:
Cross Rio-Niterói bridge (14 km) to Niterói. Take BR-101 North to Itaboraí. Take RJ-116 (Rota 116) to Cachoeiros de Macacu to Nova Friburgo. Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis. In 30 km turn to Salinas valley at left. Go to Conquista District then
Santa Cruz District then São Lourenço District. Turn to right to IBELGA School to the end of the road.

The approach to many places is over an hour.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Salinas / Três Picos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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