Salinas / Três Picos Rock Climbing
|GPS:||-22.339, -42.724 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Christian Storms on Jul 18, 2014 · Updates|
|Admins:||Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby, Tony Yeary|
This region, also called "Salinas", is located in the Parque Estadual dos Três Picos (Três Picos State Park) which is the biggest state park in Rio de Janeiro, with 46,350 hectares (114,533 acres).
Known for its long traditional climbs, this area offers over 100 routes ranging from 1-19 pitches.
There are four main peaks. They are Maior, Médio and Menor (Big, Medium and Small) and Capacete (helmet).
Pico Maior, the is the highest mountain in the sierra at 7760 feet, offers 2300 feet granite walls mixing all climbing styles in routes ranging from 8-19 pitches. Some pitches are on vertical walls with huge feldspar crystals protruding from the many pegmatite dikes.
The East Face of Pico Major the route known as Leste or East in Portuguese is considered the most classic route. It is graded at 5.9 or 4° V A1E3.
The Arco da Velha route set up in 1986 is a great option for those more experienced climbers.
Major routes include:
Leste (East) 4° V A1E3 (Pico Maior)
Arco da Velha 6° VI+ (Pico Maior)
Pontão do Sol 5° VI + (Pico Maior)
Variante Psylocybis 3° (Pico Maior)
Chaminé Pellegrini 6° VI (Pico Menor)
Devaneios do Repouso 6° VII (Capacete)
Sol da Meia Noite 4° V + E3 (Capacete)
CERJ 10 pitches 5.10 (Capacete)
Actual roads are:
Cross Rio-Niterói bridge (14 km) to Niterói. Take BR-101 North to Itaboraí. Take RJ-116 (Rota 116) to Cachoeiros de Macacu to Nova Friburgo. Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis. In 30 km turn to Salinas valley at left. Go to Conquista District then
Santa Cruz District then São Lourenço District. Turn to right to IBELGA School to the end of the road.
The approach to many places is over an hour.
If planning to stay, Republica Tres Picos with Mascarin is ideal. One can camp outside or stay inside his home at the base of the peaks and approach climbs from there. facebook.com/Rep%C3%BAblica…;
Classic Climbing Routes at Salinas / Três Picos
Days w Precip