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Areas in Camelback Mountain

August Canyon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Bobby's Rock 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Boulder Canyon 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Camel's Ear 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 3
Gargoyle Wall 6 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Headwall, The 2 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Hump, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Praying Monk, The 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 4
South Walls/Neck Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Suicide Canyon 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Western Bouldering Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Western Walls 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 1,500 ft
GPS: 33.515, -111.962 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Perched pretty much square in the middle of the Phoenix metro area is this mountain that sort of looks like a camel. It is the closest climbing to Phoenix, with the rock being a sort of desert conglomeration that has been described as "petrified mud." There are some pretty cool routes here, however, and a fun day of climbing or bouldering can be had here for locals as well as visiting climbers. The biggest issue might be getting a parking spot in the small Echo Canyon lot. A little patience is often rewarded, however.

Getting There

Camelback Mountain is located at approximately 44th Street and McDonald Streets in Phoenix. The Echo Canyon parking lot is accessed off McDonald Street, just east of Tatum (N Echo Canyon Parkway).

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Camelback Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
North Central Variation to the Hart R…
Trad 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hart Route
Sport 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
East Face
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
SouthEast Corner
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hard Times
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
3-Star Nightmare
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Donamatrix
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chimera
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Aerial Combat
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spice Box
Sport 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghastly Rubberfat
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crumble City
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Direct
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cameltoe
Sport
North Central Variation to… Gargoyle Wall 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Hart Route Gargoyle Wall 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport 4 pitches
East Face Praying Monk 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Sport
SouthEast Corner Praying Monk 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Hard Times Gargoyle Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport 3 pitches
3-Star Nightmare Boulder Canyon 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Donamatrix Headwall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Chimera Gargoyle Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Aerial Combat Gargoyle Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport 3 pitches
Unknown Gargoyle Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Spice Box Headwall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
Ghastly Rubberfat Headwall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crumble City Bobby's Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 TR
Black Direct Suicide Canyon 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cameltoe Headwall 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Camelback Mountain »

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lost ryno
Phoenix, AZ
lost ryno   Phoenix, AZ
Went to try to run up Black Direct this morning. When my partner got to the top of the second pitch he was immediately stung by bee's with no warning. He got out of there as fast as possible and only got stung a couple more times but I imagine it coulda gotten worse in short order. Probably not safe until it get much cooler. Sep 14, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Anyone have any specific bolts that they think should be repaired? If so, I'll help you fix it.

I have one of my old routes in mind to begin with, Black Direct. A bolt was smashed by a friend; he mistakenly thought some careless individual impacted the neighboring spooky route, Suicide. So he beat it up.

Since it hasn't been repaired I thought I'd like to start a trend here. Nov 21, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
The "Alpine Climbing" checkbox was toggled on the Gargoyle Wall. It is no longer toggled and will hopefully filter down to the climbs shortly. Good catch! Nov 8, 2014
Jeremy Wicker
Carson, New Mexico
Jeremy Wicker   Carson, New Mexico
This was one of my favorite locations to climb sport in the Valley. I'm not a big fan of the slab at McDowell or the run out at Pinnacle. Its location makes it the most convenient place to climb sport in Phoenix and the routes actually have some length. Also,there was plenty of space to park after the parking lot renovation and the trails were very well kept. There was a small beehive at the Headwall that we chose to avoid. May 25, 2014
Sr Rake
Tucson
Sr Rake   Tucson
I was looking forward to climbing camelback mountain last weekend but when we arrived in the Echo Canyon parking lot it was closed for construction. Reportedly there are other ways to access the mountain but the only one I knew of would have been a 3 mile hike which wouldn't work with the young kids and the infant that was in our group. Originally it was supposed to be open Fall 2013 but it's closed through Dec 2013 maybe even longer based on the amount of unfinished construction at the site. Dec 10, 2013
Hey Dreez,

Thanks though for the note. Given that it's not on here or any of the guides I'm guessing the climb is too new or too old? The climb I was talking about is right below where you would rap of the main hiking summit of Camelback. Take a beeline from the christmas tree and approach the ledge. There are two bolt lines. Rap or lower down and check it out. It's not as crumbly as any of the other climbs in the area imo.

The monk routes are fun we were up there for ze holiday. They'd placed a tree on top of the monk as well this year. Dec 27, 2011
Dreez  
I was a newbie with no book or directions. So here it is.

From Echo Canyone parking lot look up to Monks Rock. if you can't see it you should not be climbing. Directly below it is the HeadWall, about 300 feet long and has various climbs on it. Above the headwall is Monk Rock. Behind Monk Rock (but starts at same level) is Gargoyol Wall where the bees swarm and kill people. On the left of Gargoyl is Hart Route were bees kill people.

From Echo Canyon parking lot haul your ass up the trail to first saddle. Trail heads right along headwall. Various Easy routes take you to upper strata and tails to Monk Route. All these routes are crumbly and although easy you will panic as they crumble below your feet and shower your belayer with rocks. Wear helmets. Need no gear other than quickdraws.

Monk Route is easy but a bit run out. Not crumbly like the rest of this mudhill. It has been really cleaned great, its a super route. Dec 25, 2011
Does anyone know what the route directly below the main summit is rated/called? If hike to the top and approach the sheer edge looking north there is a two bolt anchor and a route with ~10 bolts. The rock quality is amazing compared to the rest of the camelback area in my opinion. An awesome old man showed it to me and my partner today and it ended up being a bit more than I could handle after a full day of going up and down the mountain and the headwall. Dec 25, 2011
So, the roof cut out on the east side of the trial from bobbys rock, its just south of main headwall...its all slick and by the giant bee hives....found a line that will go! Its a clean sweeping roof, and deserves to get bolted. But the bees make me nervous >< what a conundrum! I think the little cave area has a name, but its such a slick sweeping roof theres no where to bolt accept the route we found. If anyone knows where Im talking about, check it out its wonderous, and I bet it could hit at a 5.13 or so but itd have to be built groud up at first. Jul 31, 2010
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
To get to the headwall from the parking lot - follow the obvious line of Arizona State underage ass up the main trail from the Veranda area. When you get to the first major saddle, turn to the south and you will see the headwall below the Praying Monk. - The line starts at the class 4 slope to the 5.3 wall and all the way over to Sleazy Street and Spicebox. I have a pic on here showing the headwall - look on the pictures of the Camelback Mountain to see the overall look - its kind of hard to miss.
If interested in a partner... let me know I love going up there after work! Apr 7, 2010
New to the area. How do I get to the headwall?

Chris Apr 1, 2010
New to the area. How do I get to the headwall?

Chris Apr 1, 2010
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
ANYONE THAT CLIMBS THE HART ROUTE OR ROUTES TO THE WEST OF HART ROUTE

The bees are out in full force! My buddy was stung repeatadly again and I warn against doing any of the upper pitches of the Hart Route... The hive is about 10 feet away from the belay of the third pitch and because of the increase in heat.. the bees are very active

BE WARNED! May 1, 2009
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Yeah i heard about the accident also a while back, i have climbed that route and damn those bees are all over the place, it scares the crap out of me just seeing that hive. I wont do a route that is anywhere near those bees again, its not worth the risk. However, does anyone know an exterminator? Apr 25, 2007
Those bees caused an accident last year where a climber fell to his death - same exact spot! Mar 14, 2006

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