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Routes in The Headwall

Cameltoe S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Donamatrix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Ghastly Rubberfat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headwall Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rain of Terror S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rappel Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Sleazy Street S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spice Box S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walk Up, The S 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Herbert, Manny Rangel
Page Views: 3,076 total · 23/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Going from the undercling, and setting it up right, is the crux. I have hit it with either hand but I think the right hand high is best. The jug is incut and perfect. How much better does it get?

Location

At the end of the Headwall, just before the Icebox dihedral.

Protection

Bolts, all at good spots. Rap from slings.

Photos

manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
A key block fell off that helped you set up for the undercling and throw for the jug on the cameltoe. This is now harder, hint: use kneebars to reach the bolt on the right of the toe. It felt more like 11c to me. Mar 31, 2009
I did terrible on my 1st attempt but at least i finished. All the clips were pretty scary, I would love to come back and do this climb again....oh ya and 80ft? Felt allot shorter maybe 50...
youtube.com/watch?v=ks--S7W… Dec 8, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Thank you whoever added the leave-it biners at the anchors! Please leave these in place as they enable an easy rap-off. Note that they should probably not be used for TRing this route. Apr 29, 2012
Onsight....fail...didnt notice the knee bar. Instead we just threw from the left. Kneebar would have helped much more. Apr 13, 2010
bsocks
Peoria, AZ
bsocks   Peoria, AZ
Defintitely thought provoking at the roof. Feet are sparse until you can get your kneebar in. Undercling, squeeze, kneebar, and go!! Dec 4, 2009

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