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Routes in Western Bouldering Area

Depressed Arete V0+ 4+
Eternal Traverse, The V0-1 4+
Flaming Testicle V3+ 6A+
Flaming Testicle, Left V2 5+
Tomb, The V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 450 total, 15/month
Shared By: Zek on Jun 8, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The most popular problem in the area.

This variation makes use of a few pockets to go straight up after the testicle, requiring more strength.

Beta:
Start on obvious, large rocks to the right and behind the testicle. Match on the testicle, using its good holds on the rear (flat side). Right hand to small 2 finger pocket above testicle. Climb up using the lip to get to the large pocket, cross, and finish on a bigger lip.

Crux:
The crux varies depending on height/reach, but it's usually getting to the large pocket or jumping for the end.

Other:

  • The back wall is fragile/crumbly but should not pose an issue.
  • Having extra reach and height will be beneficial on this variation.
  • Topping out here is dangerous, not recommended.
  • The grade is highly debated

Location

~200 feet forward on the climbers trail. When getting on the trail it will be directly ahead of you, but will be on your left once you follow it.

Protection

1-2 pad(s) and spotter. The large pocket is known to have spiders. Down climb is challenging.

Photos

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