Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: M. Rangel
Page Views: 6,392 total · 41/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Mar 13, 2006 with updates from baroldgene
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

This is a water streak, holds are fairly stable but climb softly anyways. Pebbles rain down from the top of the Headwall and continue down eventually. Mostly knobs and edges in the matrix make for good holds. Stay low in the traverse to the left on the first pitch to keep the bolt above you. Use a long sling.

Location

To find route, walk south about 200yds along trail at base of Headwall til you come to alcove and shallow dihedral with a line of bolts up a waterstreak. From Echo Canyon parking lot, look along headwall to tallest portion, a guano-covered pinnacle marks the left side of the climb.

Protection

Many bolts, some 1/2" x 7" with a two bolt anchor first pitch; Rap hangers on left for last pitch.
Spahle
Mesa, Arizona
Spahle   Mesa, Arizona
One of the belay rappel bolts on top of pitch two is starting to come loose. All three in my party rapped on it and it held fine but I wouldn't trust it by itself. The other bolt is still solid. Other then that it's a great route. Apr 23, 2007
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
  5.8
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
  5.8
As of yesterday...8/24 I dont know that I would trust either of those bolts...The loose one is pretty loose now and the other seems to be taking the brunt ... be careful and access the situation for yourself. But the rap for the Spicebox is a hop skip and a jump away... Aug 25, 2008
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.8+
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.8+
I haven't done this in a couple of years and so I went back to see what the problem with the bolts was. Maybe someone fixed a suspect bolt, they seemed the same to me. None of the anchors was loose, they were in the condition I left them in. If you have some specific worry, send me an email. Mar 31, 2009
I thought this climb was a fun, well-protected lead but I found both anchor bolts were loose and I didn't feel safe using them. Nov 24, 2010
Jon Ruth
Flagstaff, AZ
Jon Ruth   Flagstaff, AZ
Great route. Fun and challenging. As of last week both of the anchors were a bit loose at the top of p2. The right one more so. Next time somebody goes up, bring some epoxy. Jan 17, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
5.8
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
5.8
Fantastic movement but hard to choose a star rating since the rock is so loose. The first anchor seemed bomb-proof but didn't want to trust my life to the second; both bolts have space around them and the right side bolt wiggles. Decided to hike over to the anchor on Headwall. Dec 9, 2011
Roger Goldstein
  5.8+
Roger Goldstein  
  5.8+
I say the first pitch goes at 5.9 if your 5'5" due to some reachy moves in the center of the pitch. Otherwise it's classic scary assed Camelback climbing! Apr 5, 2012
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.8+
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.8+
I think this line is best when done as one long pitch. Then it is 16 bolts long, fun. 24" Runners on bolts 3-5, don't clip the anchors on the top of P1, and sling the first bolt on p2(you can clip this pretty much from the ledge anyways).

Top pitches anchors seemed fine to me a few days ago. Apr 18, 2012
brettzenor
Scottsdale
  5.8
brettzenor   Scottsdale
  5.8
Super classic route, did it for the first time yesterday. A bit of precision is required on the first pitch but nothing was loose. The second pitch is super fun too but I had a crimper or two pull out on me. There's a big jug about half way up the second pitch that you can dyno to from the left side of the route, so if you're feeling up to it! All bolts were great! Including belay bolts on both pitches. Feb 9, 2014
KyleK2
Phx/Flg AZ
KyleK2   Phx/Flg AZ
Fun route to link both pitches. If you extend the first bolt of P2 with a long sling helps rope drag. Also great way to access the gargoyle wall. Mar 8, 2014
JP Griffith
Denver, CO
  5.8+
JP Griffith   Denver, CO
  5.8+
I don't know if this is the same issue as others have said (as some of you guys said nothing is wrong), but I definitely don't feel safe rapping off this guy. The right anchor is obviously wiggling its way out and with not much effort it moves significantly.

Jan 1, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.8+
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.8+
Umm. It isn't wiggling out. Looks the same as when I put it in. Unfortunately I started using glue ins after this route. But the 8" x 1/2" bolt hole was dug out a bit much when the hole was started. The edge of the hole will always be loose. That is a big problem here, the rock is weak and crumbles, so I used a longer than usual bolt.


If it bothers anyone else, come talk to me and you and I can replace it. Otherwise, I'll check it again. Looks like they have loosened a bit.

The anchor is only supposed to be the Metolious Rap Hangers. With the torque placed by adding links, etc (over the years I've found lots hanging here), the bolts have been pulled inward. I'll add chains to help ease the pull. Jan 1, 2016
JP Griffith
Denver, CO
  5.8+
JP Griffith   Denver, CO
  5.8+
Definitely wasn't trying to complain, I just wanted to clear things up with a photo and my perspective on it. I would've absolutely gone back up and used some epoxy on it myself, but I was on a 3-day trip from Colorado and didn't see any of these 'warnings' until I got down off the climb to put my post up. I'm not quite sure what constitutes as loose, but I've never had an anchor wiggle on me like that. But then again this was my first time climbing in AZ and it's definitely clear the the rock at camelback is marginal.

Manuel, thank you so much for your service for putting these in! It is by no means a serious hazard and anybody not comfortable rapping off can walk a few yards and use some other anchors. I'm sure whenever anyone gets a chance to make these anchors a little more secure (even if just for visual comfort) it would be greatly appreciated. Jan 4, 2016
How many bolts is each pitch? May 23, 2017
Caleb Lowery
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
Caleb Lowery   Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
First pitch is eleven bolts. If youre absent minded like me and forget to check before going up and only have ten quick draws, there's a spot around 5 or 6 bolt where you traverse up and left over a hump, and the bolts are spaced close enough that once you get the next clip you can lean down and unclip the bolt below. I did this just to decrease rope drag over that hump, but was glad I did because I ended up needing it. Second pitch was 6 I think.

Fun route! The bolts in question have been epoxyed, they were super solid. Aug 12, 2017
Shelby Kincaid
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8+
Shelby Kincaid   Phoenix, AZ
  5.8+
Well protected on the first pitch. Pitch 2 is moderately runout but I'd rate it about a 5.6. I'd recommend at least one alpine to limit rope drag on pitch 1 (see my photo of rope line). But it's not a requirement. And as always on Camelback...beware of choss! I wear a helmet whether I'm leading or following. TEST ALL HOLDS! Happy climbing. Oct 8, 2017