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Routes in The Headwall

Cameltoe S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Donamatrix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Ghastly Rubberfat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headwall Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rain of Terror S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rappel Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Sleazy Street S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spice Box S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Walk Up, The S 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Manuel Rangel
Page Views: 2,121 total, 20/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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16 Opinions

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Description

Somewhat overhung throughout most of the climb. IMO, the crux is the first few moves off the ground. Lots of loose rock outside of the bolt line.

Location

Near the end of the Headwall, and approx 30' to the left of Cameltoe.

Protection

Bolts.
Jeremy Wicker
Carson, New Mexico
  5.10b
Jeremy Wicker   Carson, New Mexico
  5.10b
The bolts and links looked pretty solid when we climbed today and I had no fear setting up a TR for the less experienced climbers in our group. The climb between the last bolt and the anchors is fairly run out but the climb at that point is incredibly easy and should be no problem. The low crux is well protected. I would advise staying on route unless you want to pull down some huge rocks and risk knocking out your belayer. May 25, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
Only one quick link remains at the anchors and I didn't have anything with me to replace/fix. Not sure when I'll get back to this route to fix, so whoever is up please be advised that the anchors will need help. Apr 29, 2012
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
FA M. Rangel Oct 23, 2011
We cut down the webbing last Saturday. We are brining two chains this saturday with rap rings off each. The webbing there was sunbleached and half cut....this shouldnt have to be replaced for years now...Oh and we lost a few holds on it too haha just before third boly left crimper came off. Apr 13, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
Think I pulled a couple key holds off -- while soloing and took a nice whipper. Good thing my pro held! Definitely a fun route, though, if more people climb and clean the loose stuff. Replaced webbing last year, probably due again. Jun 14, 2009