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Routes in Gargoyle Wall

Aerial Combat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
August Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Beehive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chimera S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cholla Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dr. Demento S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fresh Air Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Hard Times S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hart Route S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Misgivings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Central Variation to the Hart Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Pedrick's Chimney S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Pockets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 230 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown/lauren and caleb lichtenberger and don robinson
Page Views: 4,874 total, 67/month
Shared By: clichtenberger on Dec 8, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This route features excellent climbing but it is still camelback rock. Expect sparse protection on easier climbing and expect some falling rocks and plan accordingly.

3rd class scramble up granite ramp and belay.

P1- Start is just right of alternate Hart Route Gully. The first bolt is shared with the Cholla traverse. It is possible to place a .4 or .5 camalot before clipping the first bolt. The entire pitch is approximately 110' with 9bolts to two bolt belay on small ledge.

P2- 130' with 10bolts to a double bolt belay on large ledge. The final double bolt belay of the Hart route is visible from this belay.

Descent- 4th class and follow climbers trail to 100' Rappel down Pedrick's Chimney.

Location

Chimera is a gargoyle comprised of two or more different beasts. The first pitch has remained on the wall unnoticed by any of the previous guides. After climbing it for 8 years or more the second pitch was added as a fun alternate finish. All the original bolts (1.5inch drop ins with .75 inch bolts) have been replaced with solid anchors. The first pitch is located just right of the alternate Hart route climb. This is distinguished as the large low angle gully that splits the gargoyle wall. The line of bolts are visible from the base of the wall.

Protection

Quickdraws, optional .4/.5 camalot
I think the route itself is as safe or safer as one could hope at Camelback (now that the death block is gone, I guess), but the PG13 rating might be merited due to the history of the beehive activity abutting it, on the Hart Route. Just conjecture, because ain't none of those bolts coming out easily - not even in the hardened mud at CB! May 4, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Great route! Very fun. Don't understand all the PG13 ratings unless all of Camelback is automatically PG13 or worse, due to the quality of rock. But I felt this was not only the most solid rock I've climbed there, but fairly solid in its own right, and well-protected. Sep 29, 2012
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Holy deathblock batman!! Feb 29, 2012
Absolutely LOVE this route! A methodical thought pattern is required to pass the crux but excellently placed bolts makes this a fun and adventurous lead! Just bellow the last bolt on pitch one, my second found she was able to remove a very large piece of loose rock. Luckily it lasted long enough to lead past it because I used it in my ascent moments earlier.
youtube.com/watch?v=xDBFsaB… Feb 25, 2012
Roger Goldstein
  5.9 PG13
Roger Goldstein  
  5.9 PG13
Really enjoyed leading the second pitch of this route today. It was my first 5.9 lead and it climbed great all the way,the crux is steep climbing right off the belay but don't let the lesser angle after that fool you you have to think a little to get the best feet. I encourage anyone wanting a great Camelback experience to make this your way to the top! Pro is right where you need it. Jan 8, 2012
Roger Goldstein
  5.9 PG13
Roger Goldstein  
  5.9 PG13
Great Camelback style route were you can truly get off the ground, it's all there when you need it but you have to move around a little.I call it true to the rating at 5.9 getting thru the crux's.
Don't forget to stop and take in the city view from atop the second pitch, you earned it. Dec 11, 2011