Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gargoyle Wall

Aerial Combat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
August Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Beehive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chimera S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cholla Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dr. Demento S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fresh Air Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Hard Times S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hart Route S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Misgivings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Central Variation to the Hart Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Pedrick's Chimney S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Pockets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,453 total, 30/month
Shared By: ClimbPHX.com on Aug 25, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climbing is typical Camelback clmbing
P1 - Start about 130 feet right of Pedricks Chimney in trough - Easy climbing past bolt to large two bolt belay 5.0
P2 Continue up to an overhang, and climb left to chimney section. Can protect long runout with #2 if you feel the need.
P3 Traverse right around the corner into class 3 gulley and to the base of the 60 foot friction pitch - i bolt(?)
P4 Climb 5.2 face past 2 bolts to top
Rap off Pedricks chimney

Location

South of the Monk - Obvious start to the right of Pedricks...

Protection

One bolt on each pitch with good anchor at P1 and a good tree at P2. Pitch three has 2 bolt anchor
Used a couple BD cams in crack leading to Chimney for fun and practice...Newbies may find this helpful for the runout.
Jason Latting
Tucson, AZ
Jason Latting   Tucson, AZ
Bees are still there... P3 after the traverse.
Little above head height. Buddy took a sting to the head while others in the group got dive bombed (bumped). Retreated. Jan 11, 2015
Just went up Hart Route this past Saturday Nov 15, 2014.
The beehive is still there.
Rangers told us it was ok, "the bees were safe".
Well. I regretted to go there. Sure the beehive wasn't at its peak of activity but there was still a couple of bees bumping into me (colored helmet?).
I felt quite stupid to go there and get into a potentially dangerous situation.
Why not just leave Hart Route to the bees?

From time to time one can go there to check if the beehive is still there (it's been there for over 10 years) and then rappel from the top of second pitch. Until they decide to move away. Nov 18, 2014
Elliot Warden
Brooklyn, NY
Elliot Warden   Brooklyn, NY
ZEric
Surprise, AZ
 
ZEric   Surprise, AZ
 
Another bee incident was reported this week in the newspaper where out of state climbers were stung and the fire department got involved. There is a real danger on this route. Last time I climbed it was in May 2010 with a group of 5. There was bee activity, but we combined the 3rd and 4th pitch to minimize time spent near the hive at the top of the 3rd pitch and no one was stung. Nov 24, 2010
Oliver
Las Vegas, NV
Oliver   Las Vegas, NV
Climbed this route on June 27, 2010. We both got swarmed by a couple of bees just below the friction pitch. I got stung 4 times. Ended up not climbing the last pitch and bailed towards the left on the ledge with the tree - heard another bee hive but didn't stick around to investigate. Climbed to the upper ledge. More bee activity there. Down climbed over to Pedrick's Chimney rap station.

This is not a route I would recommend climbing. Imagine if you get attacked by the whole swarm as you belay your partner. Jul 3, 2010
Freesoloed Hart Route on April 24. Awesome day. Bees extremely active in hive just below the friction pitch. I snuck by without getting stung. Anyone going up there should beware of a swarm attack, and maybe think beforehand about how you'd handle that kind of emergency. Jun 1, 2010
Cole-J  
I just climbed the Hart route on the 19th and one of the guys in my party got stung twice by the bees during the climb. However, there was no bee problem once we got to the top. Mar 22, 2010
Nat Shultz
Cottonwood Heights
Nat Shultz   Cottonwood Heights
Climbed this super Camelback classic yet again on 3/20/10. NO bee issues to be found. The nest that used to be at the base of the last pitch is gone (park service clean up?). So no bees, easy fun climbing. Get on er' and enjoy.

P.S. Please don't leave webbing on the route for others. It's trash. Take it with you... If someone has to bail, let them figure it out for themselves. It's supposed to be an adventure afterall. Mar 21, 2010
ZEric
Surprise, AZ
 
ZEric   Surprise, AZ
 
The best way I've found to minimize the chances of a bee encounter is to combine P3 & P4. At the bottom of P4 just clip the belay bolt with a 4' draw and keep on going, the rope drag isn't bad. That way no one is hanging around the nest getting the bees overly agitated. This is easily done with a 60m rope. In a party of more than two, consider having a rope between climbers and use at 4' draw as a directional at the top of the 3rd. Jan 12, 2010
I was talking with Rogil today about the bees on this route and I thought it might be helpful to post some additional information on where the bees live. She mentioned the beehive is located before starting the final pitch. Before you get to the final pitch, you walk up a gully. Just as you start walking up the gully, if you look up and a little left you should be able to see the beehive. It looks like a big stain on the wall.
(thanks for the beta Rogil!) Mar 17, 2009
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
 
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
 
I just wanted to thank whoever decided to take the gear that I left on pitch three to assist those who followed me with the rappel off of this route. I thought since only climbers went up there that there may be a slight chance in hell that whoever went up there might actually leave it there for others. guess it just goes to show that people are still just people...

By the way, the bees are active and out - they are located in the hive to the left of the beginning of the third pitch... Feb 16, 2009
For recent climbers of Hart Route, what was the bee situation like? There is a hive next to this route that has cause a death in the past. Oct 1, 2008
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
 
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
 
I left gear up on the top of the first pitch to assist anyone that wants to rappell off the anchors, please do not booty. They are there for everyone,

Climb On! Oct 1, 2008