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Routes in Gargoyle Wall

Aerial Combat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
August Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Beehive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chimera S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cholla Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dr. Demento S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fresh Air Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Hard Times S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hart Route S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Misgivings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Central Variation to the Hart Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Pedrick's Chimney S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Pockets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Manny Rangel
Page Views: 692 total · 7/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Dec 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description [Suggest Change]

Two bolts protect the lower crack (5.9+), hard face climbing starts after the ledge with well placed bolts and no real runout. Crimpy, finger pockets down low on this face, crux is at the top with the overhanging bulge at last bolt.

Location [Suggest Change]

Upslope from The Monk and left of Pedrick's Chimney and the 5.8 Pockets Route. A clear line of bolts at the leftmost (east) extent of Gargoyle Wall. Two bolts (non-rappable) at top. Fresh webbing placed early Dec. 09, allowing the route to be rapped. Otherwise, traverse to eye-bolt to descend Pedrick's.

Protection [Suggest Change]

11 bolts, plus ability to protect lowermost crack with gear where the lowest bolt hanger was removed. (Someone placed a knotted chord there in early Dec. '09, which can be clipped if the first bolt is too high).

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manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Someone stole the first hanger...please return it to me, has sentimental value. Oct 10, 2010
halfbreed4lyfe
Rockford, Illinois
halfbreed4lyfe   Rockford, Illinois
Bottom easier section of route is pretty good. However once to the ledge the rock gets chausy. A friend took a fall because the flakes break off so easily. There is a carabiner in the bolt just above the ledge, that bolt will spin and wobble a bit. Also you may find my mad rock quickdraw in the bolt just above that, bailed on the route so its still there. I will say that it rained the day before and that could have caused the loose rock. Jan 4, 2015

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