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Routes in Gargoyle Wall

Aerial Combat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
August Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Beehive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chimera S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cholla Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dr. Demento S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fresh Air Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Hard Times S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hart Route S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Misgivings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Central Variation to the Hart Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Pedrick's Chimney S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Pockets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jack Turnage, Bill Forrest 1965
Page Views: 764 total · 10/month
Shared By: clichtenberger Lichtenberger on Dec 8, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

P1- Climb 4th class following the path of least resistance up ramp to base of crack. Climb pass bolt (crux) into low angle crack. Continue up crack approximately 50 feet until able to clip a bolt on left side of crack. Use a two foot runner to reduce rope drag. Then climb out on face to the right of the crack using any protection possible. A new style #4 fits well in a large pocket on the face offering the most solid pro until able to reengage the crack (it is major runout!). Then use thin cams.3-.5 camalots and microcams in the crack and pull over bulge into the gully above. Careful not to dislodge any death rocks onto your belayer below. Set belay when able.
P2- Continue up gulley until end. Belay on palo verde.

Descent- Follow climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimney rappel.

Location

This route is on the far west side of Gargoyle wall. It is the only crack that runs straight up the entire face. There is a single bolt that is placed at the beginning of the crack that is visible from the ground. It is aptly named after the active beehive that resides in the middle of the crack. THE BEEHIVE IS STILL ACTIVE. So make sure that instead of staying in the crack that you climb out on the right face. The protection is as good as the rock it is being placed.

Protection

Two Quickdraws, Single set of cams from .3-4. doubles of .5-2, Single set of small tcus for pockets. Runners.

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The beehive is still active and the protection on this route sucks. While orignally rated 5.7 it does require a 5.9/10 move to engage the crack. After the runout face climbing the crack at the bulge is junky choss making the protection dubious. It is a very serious climb on sketchy rock. The new style #4 camalot on the face is a horizontal placement and is the most solid placement on the route. Be warned this is a dangerous route! Dec 8, 2011

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