Elevation: 1,150 ft
GPS: 33.505, -112.077 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 686,775 total · 7,695/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

Phoenix is a winter mecca and summertime is long. This large desert city is home to a substantial amount of classic climbing. Whether you are trying to escape winter, or call it home, you have plenty of options to explore some stone.

The areas covered are varied in style and rock. The granite of the McDowell Mountains and Pinnacle Peak are bastions of Traditional climbing on great rock. Both of these areas are Scottsdale City Parks, please respect the rules. No new routes are allowed in either Park.

South Mountain has great granite bouldering in one of the largest City parks. This area and Camelback are both Phoenix City Parks and have rules that allow us to use them as climbers. Please respect the Parks and we can continue to enjoy this resource.

Getting There

From Phoenix you can drive in town to your favorite afternoon bouldering area or head to North Scottsdale for great granite traditional climbing.

900 Total Climbs

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Location: **Phoenix Areas Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at *Phoenix Areas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 51
West Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 84
Quaker Oats
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 101
South Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 124
East Face
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 60
Varicose
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
Razor's Edge
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 131
Hanging Gardens
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 57
Treiber's Deception
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 47
Renaissance Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 70
Birthday Party
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
Beat Feet
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
Mickey Mantle
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 65
Donamatrix
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 38
Chimera
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 51
Sphinctre Boy
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Chimney Superstition Mo… > Weavers Needle
 51
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad 4 pitches
Quaker Oats McDowell Mountains > Sven Slab
 84
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
South Crack Pinnacle Peak > Pinnacle Peak
 101
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
East Face Camelback Mountain > Praying Monk
 124
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Varicose Pinnacle Peak > AMC Boulder
 60
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Razor's Edge Superstition Mo… > Northwest Pinna… > Hand
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Hanging Gardens McDowell Mountains > Gardener's Wall
 131
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Treiber's Deception McDowell Mountains > Tom's Thumb
 57
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Renaissance Direct McDowell Mountains > Gardener's Wall
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Birthday Party Pinnacle Peak > Pinnacle Peak
 70
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Beat Feet McDowell Mountains > Morrell's Wall
 48
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mickey Mantle Pinnacle Peak > AMC Boulder
 54
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Donamatrix Camelback Mountain > Headwall
 65
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Chimera Camelback Mountain > Gargoyle Wall
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Sphinctre Boy McDowell Mountains > Girlie Man Area
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in *Phoenix Areas »

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Photos

I spent about 6 months in the area and didn't get to do any real climbing. Being new to the sport I decided not to go climbing by myself in the desert, but to explore all I could instead. I'll be going back with my climbing buddy Brian some time soon. Here are just some of the pics I got on my trip.









The following pics are from Papago Park in East Phoenix. I took a friend and his family to try some low level bouldering because they were interested in climbing. I'm not good enough to teach anyone else so I figured this was a safe start for them.














Jul 6, 2012
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
Does Phoenix Rock II cover the Superstition Mts areas?


Dec 11, 2016
Greg Opland    
Does Phoenix Rock II cover the Superstition Mts areas?

Nope. Dec 12, 2016
Will Wright
Mesa, AZ
Will Wright   Mesa, AZ
For anyone out there looking to diversify their skillset and get into WIDE Phoenix Granite climbing, try the following progression of offwidth/chimney climbs.

- South Crack, 5.5, Pinnacle Peak (NE)
- Dinky, 5.6, Morrell's Parking Lot, McDowell Mountains
- Peaches and Cream, 5.7, Sven Slab, McDowell Mountains
- Y Crack, 5.9, Y-Crack Boulder, Pinnacle Peak
- Hades, 5.10b, Pinnacle Peak (N)
- Beelzebub, 5.11b, Pinnacle Peak (NW)
- Deliverance, 5.11c, Pinnacle Peak (N) Feb 28, 2018
karl kvashay
Phoenix, AZ
karl kvashay   Phoenix, AZ
For anyone interested, rock climbing is prohibited in White Tank Regional Park, as well as all Maricopa County regional parks. This includes all the routes included in the White Tank section of Greg Opland's Phoenix Rock II guidebook. I was disappointed to learn this from a volunteer there that I questioned after seeing multiple signs saying that rock climbing is PROHIBITED. Apparently when the park was established, the climbing got shut down immediately. Great trail running out there at least, and the sonoran desert-scape is amazing! Feb 12, 2019
Greg Opland    
"Apparently when the park was established, the climbing got shut down immediately."

Although I can't find a source that identifies exactly when White Tank Mountain Regional Park was established, at the time I published Phoenix Rock II, climbing was still allowed. It was years later that I found out that climbing had quietly been outlawed in the park. As far as I know there was no public input (never saw anything) for the decision process. I just found out randomly one day that you couldn't climb there anymore. There was some discussion about opening a dialog with the county about the shut down, but to my knowledge, that never happened. I think across the Valley at San Tan Regional Park, they might still allow a bit of climbing, but someone would have to confirm that.

For what it's worth, Troon Mountain, also included in my guidebook from 1996, is also pretty much off limits for climbing now, as is the Lower East Wall and Cactus Flower West areas at Pinnacle Peak. And maps are all misleading now because of the new McDowell Sonoran Preserve, Pinnacle Peak Park, and a million other things. Things change after more than two decades. Feb 14, 2019