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Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location.
Fix Location

Areas in Sven Towers

Sven Tower 1 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Sven Tower 2 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Sven Tower 3 17 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

3 sets of Towers labelled 1, 2, 3
East facing the Verde Valley - Morning Sun and Afternoon Shade on those Hot Aug Afternoons.

Getting There

128 to Palamino Turn left and go toward Gardner Wall / Tom Thumb Trailhead. Turn Right at sign and go toward crag
Stop at the first Morrell Wall Parking Lot.
New park signs will lead you up the Canyon to the saddle.
Towers 1 and 2 are to the left and 3 is down and on the right side of the Apron.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sven Towers

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Right Rib
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Cary'd Away
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Undercling
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Backbone
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Left Route
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Shark Tooth
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Spinal Tap
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 4
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Ergone
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Spinal Nerve
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Dermatome
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
Spinal Cracker
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Spare Rib
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Spinal Block
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Right Rib Sven Tower 3
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Cary'd Away Sven Tower 2
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Undercling Sven Tower 3
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Backbone Sven Tower 3
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Left Route Sven Tower 3
 10
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Shark Tooth Sven Tower 3
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Spinal Tap Sven Tower 3
 13
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA… Sven Tower 3
 4
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Ergone Sven Tower 3
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Spinal Nerve Sven Tower 3
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Dermatome Sven Tower 3
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Spinal Cracker Sven Tower 3
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Spare Rib Sven Tower 3
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Spinal Block Sven Tower 3
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sven Towers »

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Photos

ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
The City of Scottsdale and the local AMC members have spent the time to make sure there is trail signage in this area. Although there are a number of faint trails to Sven 1 ... please try and use the trail that leads to 3 and work your way back to 2 instead of blazing up the side of the mountain. Aug 11, 2010
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
@Linda - Its about a 15 min walk to the saddle - 5 minutes to the base of Sven 3
and another 5 minutes back up the hill and over to two and one... Oct 31, 2010
Anyone have an up-to-date record of topos, first ascent parties, route ratings and FA dates for Sven Towers I,II &/or III? Information does not have to be complete, anything you have will be valuable. Available info seems to be mostly by word of mouth... Oct 31, 2015
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
Talk to Eric Filsinger ... He is writing a book about it. Nov 25, 2015
ErikF  
Some of the information cited above is out of date and/or incomplete as of now compared to what I gathered for the guidebook. Folks wanting to update the information can contact me and I'll try to help. Feb 1, 2018

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