Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 2,134 total · 30/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jan 20, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

A great line hidden from sight. Technically a 3 pitch route it's best to skip the first pitch and link 2 and 3.
Starts in a wide chimney with a flake inside of it for good gear and perfect hand jams. About 35ft up exit left off jugs to a short corner. Above is a set of bolted anchors, skip those and aim for the furthest right crack which is actually a big flake that becomes overhanging towards the top, mantle where the crack dies out, take a breather, clip a bolt and surmount the easy final bulge to another bolted anchor.
Rap with one 60m rope.

Location

Left of Mutt and Jeff in a right facing Chimney. Either climb P1 of Epacondilis, Mutt, or Jeff then look to the climbers left or scramble up and left from the base of these routes and behind a giant flake.

Protection

None bigger than #2 C4 Needed. I walked gear up the chimney part to the exit to avoid rope drag. Long runners are helpful.

Photos

Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
5.10a/b
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
5.10a/b
The chimney pitch might be 5.9+, but the top pitch is surely very stiff, even at 5.10 a/b. Definitely old school! Nov 20, 2013
JT Moree
Scottsdale, AZ
 
JT Moree   Scottsdale, AZ
 
On the second pitch the 5.10 crack goes straight up but there is an easier line slightly to the left (5.9ish). Oct 26, 2015