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Routes in Flatiron

Field of Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sidewinder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters
Page Views: 3,591 total · 23/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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20 Opinions

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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Walk 50' left of the prow of Flatiron, at a 25' flake leaning against the wall. Left side is thin, right is hands. A welded cold shut is visible 30' above. Climb up and right past bolts then left onto blocks to surmount bolt protected stem roof p1/150'/5.10c. Belay from ledge up and right. Climb easy 5th class cracks up and left to below white band of rock p2/50'. Go straight up past bolts on white band to dihedral and go right into crack that traverses left on bolt to belay on large blocks p3/80'/5.9. Traverse right into hand crack up to bolt above, go left into corner and continue up to the bolt protected roof. Finish on thin corner to belay on large ledge p4/160'/5.10c/d. Final pitch is easy 5th class for 40'. All belays are bolted except the top, so walk off is best (walk north to trail) but you can rap route w/double 60m ropes.

Protection

single rack of cams from small to #3; nuts, lowe tri cams, 15 QDs/runners
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
Hike is no big deal. ::) Fun route, surprise tourists on the top. Curious about more routes etc, saw some tat, but wondering..... anybody know more than than the 3-4 routes already established? Dec 26, 2010
Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
Cody Ferguson   Durango, CO
 
Interesting climbing and decent gear. Well worth the hike. Jan 17, 2011
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This route is much better than I expected and has consistently interesting climbing, especially on the 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches. Kyle C and I did this route on Dec 28 in about 68 deg and shade and were very comfortable. We took a single set and a 70m rope, easily linking pitches 2 and 3 to make this a three pitch climb with a short scramble at the top. Excellent climbing on good rock with good protection in an interesting location makes for a classic route. Dec 31, 2011
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10c
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10c
Definitely a classic climb with a great position on the Flatiron! Everything about the climb was super fun. All pitches have a bunch of bolts, but none are entirely bolted.

I felt like pitch 1 was the crux for me with some really wide stemming through 2 different sections, protected nicely(maybe just hard because it was the first pitch after the hike in).

As mentioned linking 2&3 should be done as you barely need to place gear on pitch 2.

Pitch 3 is a breeze and another awesome stemming pitch with bolts nicely spaced through the white band of soft rock. The roof and finger crack at the end are great.

Pitch 4 is the best pitch I have done in the Supes to date! That was some seriously fun movement over a long pitch of great gear and bolts.

Rack we had was: 1x Purple-Yellow Mastercams, .4-3 C4s, nuts; with 8 qds and 8 alpine draws. I bring exactly the same next time, except maybe leave the #3 at home.

FoD was quite civilized compared to some other Supes classics, especially compared to its neighbor Sidewinder . Lots of bolts on the pitches, bolted belays, great rock, great gear, etc. The hike up to the Flatiron is brutal, but totally worth it for this climb! Apr 16, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Pretty darn amazing climb and day up there! Unreal that I haven't done this before. Oh well, I'll blame it on the dog not wanting to hike all the way up there...

Agree with Tim on his post. The hike is what it is - 3 miles and 3000 ft of elevation gain. Take it or leave it. We treated it as a bonus workout for the day and definitely a really nice one. Certainly gives me perspective on the Granite Mountain approach and helps explain why every crack system on that really super quality rock cliff hasn't been developed. I'm in no hurry to return and risk getting my drill confiscated to set a new route!!

Spectacular in so many ways.

I used the #3 to protect the hand crack off the belay for the 4th pitch, so found it useful. Didn't need both #2's and could've used more than the 10 draws that I brought (didn't realize that there were so many bolts). Didn't use any nuts either. Probably a bit more than a single rack (I carried a double to #2 and had plenty left over on the 1st and 4th pitches), but not much more.

The roofs were well protected, fun and not the cruxes. Feb 7, 2016
Chris Adams
Mesa, Arizona
 
Chris Adams   Mesa, Arizona
 
What an amazing climb! The approach was strenuous but relatively easy to follow and the climb was more than worth the effort!

Approach Beta:
Follow the siphon draw trail. After ascending the slick rock, the trail summits on a small hill before descending into a small valley. There’s a fairly well marked trail at the top of this small hill on the right. It leads off to the right and around some rock formations. It’s marked with cairns along the way and leads you to the south for a bit before turning left and climbing up on to a ridge west of the prow of the flatiron. Follow the cairns and keep an eye on the prow and you can’t go wrong.

Gear beta:
We took doubles from 0.1 to #1 and a single #2 and #3. 8 x QD and 8 x alpine draws. I felt this was more than enough gear for the climb. A confident leader at the grade could get away with singles but I felt that doubles really allowed me to sew it up, usually with gear left over.

Climbing beta:
Route finding was pretty obvious throughout. Cruxes were truly tough with some strange stemming and funky positions. Very fun figuring out the movement. Be warned: I felt the crux on P1, above the roof, was the toughest. We found a bail biner there and totally understood why someone would bail at that point. That cold shut seemed very high up there and the crux is intimidating. However, if you can reach that cold shut you can more than likely get a hand on the jugs that present themselves just a couple moves above. If you can clip the shut the GO FOR IT! !!! It’s a safe fall and totally fun!

Also be warned: there is, what appears to be, a very loose block right at the crux of P4. It seems to be a key hold for the crux. :(

Return Beta:
We topped out and hiked back down the main trail. There’s fainter trail that traverse back towards the base of the flatiron. If you keep an eye on the wall the trail appears at a logical junction and is pretty easy to follow back to your bags at the base. May 2, 2018

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