Avg: 3.5 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters|
|Page Views:||3,788 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||manuel rangel on Feb 15, 2006|
|Admins:||Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland|
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Walk 50' left of the prow of Flatiron, at a 25' flake leaning against the wall. Left side is thin, right is hands. A welded cold shut is visible 30' above. Climb up and right past bolts then left onto blocks to surmount bolt protected stem roof p1/150'/5.10c. Belay from ledge up and right. Climb easy 5th class cracks up and left to below white band of rock p2/50'. Go straight up past bolts on white band to dihedral and go right into crack that traverses left on bolt to belay on large blocks p3/80'/5.9. Traverse right into hand crack up to bolt above, go left into corner and continue up to the bolt protected roof. Finish on thin corner to belay on large ledge p4/160'/5.10c/d. Final pitch is easy 5th class for 40'. All belays are bolted except the top, so walk off is best (walk north to trail) but you can rap route w/double 60m ropes.