Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 21,059 total · 100/month
Shared By: Marcy - on Oct 28, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Scramble up the left-angling ramp/crack to the base of the flake. Continue diagonally up left in crack to a right angling crack. Follow this crack to a 2-bolt hanging belay. 100'

Note - this belay is also the location of the 2nd rap.

Pitch 2: Make a thin move from the belay into a crack diagonaling right. Follow this crack as it becomes slightly steeper and heads straight up. Go left on easy cracks and face to the top. Gear belay. ~130'.

Descent: Locate bolts for the 1st rap to the left (climbers left). Two double rope raps back down to your the base - watch out for other parties coming up the route!

Alternately, the descent can be completed with a single 70m rope. You can rap from the top of Hanging Gardens to an anchor on another route, a little bit climbers right of where the rope naturally hangs. From there, rap to the ground. You get near the end of the rope, but just tie stopper knots and there's nothing to worry about.

You can walk-off the back of this route via a third-class ramp with a bit of exposure. Walking off will ease congestion on this heavily trafficked route. After walking off one can do one or more of the many climbs in the upper McDowells (see guidebook). Descend via the Tom's Thumb trail.

Location Suggest change

Begin below the large, right-leaning flake in the middle of the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Small to medium cams, doubles of BD #1-3 helpful. Could use a #4 near top of P2, but climbing gets fairly easy here.