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Routes in The Praying Monk

East Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monk's Ass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Monk's Chin T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a C1
SouthEast Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gary Driggs, 1951
Page Views: 8,326 total · 58/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

First find a large Boulder that makes a small cave on Southeast side of The Monk. Climb bolted face up and and to the right around corner to access the East face. Climbing past here is 5.3.

Location

The monk is the tower that is above the headwall, you cant miss it, route is on the east side.

Protection

9 bolts to top. Anyone know the current anchor/rappel setup at the top?
Such a fun route, great exposure and rap! 9 bolts to 2 belay Ibolts. 2 Ibolts to rap off the south face. There is no quick links or chains, but the rap was fine. Jan 7, 2018
Next time someone goes up there the rap anchors could use some quicklinks with chains. Jun 4, 2016
dahigdon
phoenix, Az
  5.5
dahigdon   phoenix, Az
  5.5
lots of exposure.. fun rap off the south overhang. Mar 24, 2016
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.3 PG13
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.3 PG13
This route is really fun and extremely easy. I think there is around 7 new bolts. Some sections do get run-out, but the climbing is in the 5.3 range. I would recommend this route for brand new outdoor climbers, or new climbers in general. The rock is above par compared to other routes at camelback. Dec 8, 2015
wvoorhis
Knoxville, TN
 
wvoorhis   Knoxville, TN
 
There's now only one belay bolt at the top where there used to be three. There are still the two rap bolts off to the side, which I used to back up my anchor, but they're kind of far from the belay bolt, making for a pretty weird setup if you do it that way. Some extra cordelette or a cam could probably be used to back up the belay bolt. Feb 9, 2014
brettzenor
Scottsdale
  5.7 PG13
brettzenor   Scottsdale
  5.7 PG13
Loved this route! I could definitely do without the 30 feet of rope out when clipping pieces but overall secure and fun stuff! 9 draws are needed! Bring extra draws just in case otherwise you will only be making the run outs even more run out. Feb 9, 2014
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.7
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.7
BRING MORE DRAWS! The book we were using only said 6 draws were needed but I think there was a total of 9 bolts from start to finish. I had to down climb and unclip one or two to make it the whole way. Dec 31, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Great route on solid rock. Total height is about 115' since a second tied into the rope at the base leaves the trailing end about 30' off the ground once he/she gets to the anchor. Of course, a 60m still gets you to the ground no problem, rapping the south side. Dec 9, 2011
Just ran up the east face with a freind today 3/22/11. The climb was great, never felt any holds flex or dealt with much choss besides at the headwall. Solid climb, taught a first timer how to belay from the top. Great climb for learning and honing in your leading skills/anchor skills. 1 Huge Ibolt awaits you at the top, followed by two other Ibolts near the southeast edge of the rock which we used obviously to rappel off of. Stellar Climb just watch out for the fat chicks (jokes ofcourse) and ASU Dbags that infest the hikers trail.

P.S. Never experienced any issues on this climb with reguards to the runouts between third and fourth bolts. Even though their spaced. Their spaced for a reason, it's easy climbing just dont forget to bring some confidence with you when you climb!

Enjoy! and come visit your friends at AZ On The Rocks in Scottsdale

- Eric W Mar 22, 2011
Don't wanna split hairs and I am not saying this route is not very easy but it definetly harder than 5.3 after the first couple bolts it is probally like 5.6. Dec 29, 2010
Nate Myers  
 
This is nit-picky point, but what the hey. Based on the info provided by Greg Opland in his 1996 "Phoenix Rock II", the 5.3 east face route actually starts by scrambling up and left into the cave created by a large boulder leaning against the Praying Monk proper. From here, one can scramble up (Class 3)a ramp to the first bolt of the East Face route, clip the bolt, step out on the face and climb up. The boulder doesn't actually contact the side of the Praying Monk so it isn't a problem to flip your rope out of the cave and onto the east face. Starting direct from ground adds maybe twenty feet of 5.6 climbing before hitting the 5.3 climbing on the east face. Either way, a really fun climb. Feb 17, 2009
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
  5.3
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
  5.3
I also don't see why this would be considered PG13. There are bolts and they are new as far as I can remember so I didn't feel like there was anything sketchy about this climb at all. Jan 14, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.5
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.5
There is some fairly "bad" grafitti at the start to the original East Face route. Located low to the left as you step through the notch (faces kinda west-ish) in the chimney hallway. Meant to try to remove it, but, we forgot the scotchbrite or wire brush.

Great route. Mar 15, 2007
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
 
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
 
We started the route on a South facing start with a bolt and then onto the ledge with another bolt. You then step out and up to the third and fourth bolts. Apr 11, 2006
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
 
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
 
I agree. Did it a few weeks ago. No problem except for the slight runout on the third and fourth bolts...Dont let the exposure get to you...Theres lots of stuff up top to hang onto as you trust your feet... :) Mar 9, 2006
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
You must be referring to The Monk's east face. It's one pitch and utterly safe if you make the start around the corner. Otherwise, it could be pg13. Mar 4, 2006