All Locations > Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > McDowell Mountains > Sven Towers > Sven Tower 3

Spinal Tap

Name: Spinal Tap
Rating: 3.3

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Sven Tower 3

L › R R › L A › Z

	Baby Back T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Backbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cracked Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dermatome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ergone T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Left Rib S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Plaque Attack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Right Rib T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Shark Attack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Shark Tooth T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spare Rib T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Spinal Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Spinal Cracker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Spinal Nerve T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Spinal Tap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Undercling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,840 total · 39/month
Shared By:	Ted Smith on Nov 20, 2015
Admins:	Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Access: Details

For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.

Description

Start is same as Ergon but traverses right toward and into chimney instead of going straight up at the head wall above horizontal crack and after first bolt on that wall. Psychological crux is stemming out and transitioning into the chimney. Finishes on left arete after 15 feet of chimney climbing straight up.

Location

Right of Ergone (route E) and left of Spinal Nerve (route C) on lower tier of left rib of Sven Tower III. Can scramble off right at top or go to excellent second tier climbs which finish on top of the tower. Rap anchors at every level.

Protection

After fourth bolt, traverse up toward right side of wall and clip a bolt at small ledge just under the chimney. Bolt on far side of chimney. Next bolt is on left arete above chimney. Use alpine draws at the bolts below and in chimney to reduce/eliminate rope drag.