Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,840 total · 39/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Nov 20, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

Start is same as Ergon but traverses right toward and into chimney instead of going straight up at the head wall above horizontal crack and after first bolt on that wall. Psychological crux is stemming out and transitioning into the chimney. Finishes on left arete after 15 feet of chimney climbing straight up.

Location

Right of Ergone (route E) and left of Spinal Nerve (route C) on lower tier of left rib of Sven Tower III. Can scramble off right at top or go to excellent second tier climbs which finish on top of the tower. Rap anchors at every level.

Protection

After fourth bolt, traverse up toward right side of wall and clip a bolt at small ledge just under the chimney. Bolt on far side of chimney. Next bolt is on left arete above chimney. Use alpine draws at the bolts below and in chimney to reduce/eliminate rope drag.

Photos