Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), Grade II
FA: Untold
Page Views: 3,058 total · 38/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Nov 20, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

You & This Route

25 Opinions

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Start is same as Ergone but traverses right toward and into chimney instead of going straight up at the head wall above horizontal crack and after first bolt on that wall. Psychological crux is stemming out and transitioning into the chimney. Finishes on left arete after 15 feet of chimney climbing straight up.


Right of Ergone (route E) and left of Spinal Nerve (route C) on lower tier of left rib of Sven Tower III. Can scramble off right at top or go to excellent second tier climbs which finish on top of the tower. Rap anchors at every level.


After fourth bolt, traverse up toward right side of wall and clip a bolt at small ledge just under the chimney. Bolt on far side of chimney. Next bolt is on left arete above chimney. Use alpine draws at the bolts below and in chimney to reduce/eliminate rope drag.