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Routes in Corcovado

Atalho do Diablo T,S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
K2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oitavo Passagero T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,333 total, 49/month
Shared By: Cissa Carvalho on Jan 15, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

You & This Route


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Description

K2 is one of the most classic routes in Rio de Janeiro, and probably the most classic in Corcovado.

Although not technically difficult, the route starts at 1800 feet above sea level and some sections are quite exposed. The initial dihedral is pretty technical with little room for finger locking, followed by a delicate traverse to the left on slab.
The next pitch is pretty delicate as well and exposed, protect it if you must with small cams.
Third pitch starts at another irregular dihedral with no fixed protection, at least a few nuts and cams are recommended at the beginning, and at an irregular crack near the plateau at the end of this pitch.
Fourth pitch is mainly a slab climb with 4 fixed protections. After finishing it, follow the trail upwards, jump over the fence and you'll be right under Christ the Redeemer statue with tourists usually clapping and taking pictures of you. Classic! (Keep your gear and rack out if you like the attention).

Location

The route is in the southeast face of the mountain, and the ideal time for climbing it is in the afternoon, when it is in the shade. Fast parties usually climb it in 2 hours.
If you take the shuttle to the parking lot or drive by car, get on the train tracks and walk for about 10 minutes. After dpassing a shack to the left, get on the asphalt road. After about 5 minutes of walking, you'll see a prominnet curve. The trail starts there. Get on the trail and soon you'll be right next to the wall. When it ends, if you look up, you'll see a large dihedral. That's K2.
Once finished, take the shuttles from the summit to the same parking lot, and descend to the city from there.

Protection

Mostly fixed bolts, but it is advisable to take cams and nuts for added protection in some exposed areas on pitch 3, as well as if you take the variant on first pitch and climb the whole dihedral at the start. Double bolted anchors at all stations.
This was our first climb in Brasil. We climbed this on a Sunday, which is of course the day that all the tourists like us want to be close to the giant Jesus. When we got to the guardrail at the top the crowd peeking over was at least five deep and when we went to climb over the rail no one would budge. We both ended up sort of wedging and arm-barring our way into the crowd. It was an interesting way to finish. Then, you take the elevator down. Fun route! Dec 11, 2015
Curious as to how "run out" it is. 15 feet between bolts? Bringing 4-5 cams and a set of nut as of now.

Any other critical beta would be great! Aug 1, 2015
Don Morris
Denver, CO
  5.8 PG13
Don Morris   Denver, CO
  5.8 PG13
Cog train is now operational. Recommend not hiking on the tracks. Jun 28, 2015
Christian Storms
Tsumagoi, Gunma
Christian Storms   Tsumagoi, Gunma  
The names of the pitches are pretty funny:
1) Base - Okay, not so funny.
2) Dez Mais (Portuguese for The Top Ten)
3) Crucifixo - Because the crux requires that you put your body in a crucifix position.
4) Palavrão - Cursing words in English because you'll be saying WTF to yourself. Jul 14, 2014
My wife and I climbed this in May of this year (2014). Great climb. I don't think we would have ever found it without the help of some very friendly local climbers. I would try to describe how to get there, but I think it would do more harm than good. It was a cab ride, a walk across some train tracks, some bushwacking, and then recognizing a tiny trail at the right switchback in the road, followed by more jungle hiking for a while and then recognizing the correct dihedral. Awesome adventure climbing, and we highly recommend meeting local climbers and finding your way there! Jun 1, 2014