Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||1912, by José Teixeira Guimarães and the three Américo de Oliveira brothers.|
|Page Views:||3,648 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Christian Storms on Jul 6, 2014|
|Admins:||Tony Yeary, Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby|
Climbing this route today is still amazing not to mention seeing the original bolts that are still in operation. While the original steel ladder is not at the top, once you see it, you'll get shivers imagining how the men who made the first ascent managed to drag it up there.
The normal route (about VS, 5.6 or 5.7) is up the west side in a series of three (tight) chimneys. Another good and popular route climbs the east side, slightly harder and with some more spectacular and tight and dark chimneys (about HVS, 5.8).
The approach is killer. About an hour straight up and steep then another 45 minutes of cable and slab climbing.
Then it's time to climb 4 or 5 pitches. The first and second pitch can be done in one if you have a long rope. This is basic face climbing with some scrambling to a massive cave with a great view. The third pitch is called BLACKOUT which is a chimney that is tight enough to keep out the light of day. The fourth pitch another chimney called Maria Cebola). From there you'll reach the famous ladder.