Type: | Trad, 440 ft (133 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | FA Robin Barley, Harry Young, Jade Dumas |
Page Views: | 420 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Pavla Breska on Sep 12, 2022 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is an amazing but probably an overlooked route on Slhanay. Part of this route is shared with the White Feather. The cruxes are short and the route provides lots of fun and cruisy climbing. Definitely worth checking out. It deserves more traffic than it gets.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 20 m) Layback the wide corner crack that starts behind a shattered stump. Clip two bolts on route.
Pitch 2 (5.9, 20 m) Climb a bolted slab to a steep hand crack on the sidewall of the big open corner. Exit left to a hidden belay on a ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.10b, 25 m) Move back into the corner and up via stems and laybacks to a belay ledge at the beginning of a slabby traverse.
Pitch 4 (5.11a, 10 m) A short traverse requires an awkward step-down move. Belay below a big corner. This pitch felt hard for the grade.
Pitch 5 (11b, 35 m) Climb the beautiful dihedral starting with technical stemming and finishing with burly layback. At the top, move left pass 2 bolts (crux) to reach the belay. This pitch is amazing.
Pitch 6 (10a, 25 m) A steep start leads to a ramp with a deep hand crack. At the top, move to the right hand side crack of the final bulge.
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