Type: Trad, 440 ft (133 m), 6 pitches
FA: FA Robin Barley, Harry Young, Jade Dumas
Page Views: 420 total · 16/month
Shared By: Pavla Breska on Sep 12, 2022
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

This is an amazing but probably an overlooked route on Slhanay. Part of this route is shared with the White Feather. The cruxes are short and the route provides lots of fun and cruisy climbing. Definitely worth checking out. It deserves more traffic than it gets.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 20 m) Layback the wide corner crack that starts behind a shattered stump. Clip two bolts on route.

Pitch 2 (5.9, 20 m) Climb a bolted slab to a steep hand crack on the sidewall of the big open corner. Exit left to a hidden belay on a ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.10b, 25 m) Move back into the corner and up via stems and laybacks to a belay ledge at the beginning of a slabby traverse.

Pitch 4 (5.11a, 10 m) A short traverse requires an awkward step-down move. Belay below a big corner. This pitch felt hard for the grade.

Pitch 5 (11b, 35 m) Climb the beautiful dihedral starting with technical stemming and finishing with burly layback. At the top, move left pass 2 bolts (crux) to reach the belay. This pitch is amazing.

Pitch 6 (10a, 25 m) A steep start leads to a ramp with a deep hand crack. At the top, move to the right hand side crack of the final bulge. 

Location Suggest change

Photophobia Buttress, between Bella Coola and The White Feather

Protection Suggest change

SR to 2.5", 2x 0.3-2.5"

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