Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, Aid, 130 ft|
|FA:||Andre Ike, Jim Martinello, 2000|
|Page Views:||103 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||John Gassel on Jun 23, 2019|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
From the belay on the low angled slab, work left on easy ground clipping 2 bolts. From here, head up the arête through some thoughtful 5.10 slab moves.
The next three bolts are A0 through the overhang. Not too reachy. Once you surmount the overhang on aid you’re quickly into the crux of the pitch. Resist the urge to keep aiding and pull through the awkward, balancy mantle. Easier ground and one more bolt await you on the upper slab.
This climb has new bolts and it should be possible to pull through most of the hard moves, so get on it!
Walk off or rappel down the face with double ropes. The first rap anchor is in a chimney climber’s left of the top out and is fairly obvious.