Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, Aid, 130 ft (39 m)|
|FA:||Andre Ike, Jim Martinello, 2000|
|Page Views:||656 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||John Gassel on Jun 23, 2019|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Significant rockfall was reported July 6, 2021 from the Photophobia Buttress Area. Climbing routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather are currently closed until further assessments can be made.
For a map of the closure area, please see: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
From the belay on the low angled slab, work left on easy ground clipping 2 bolts. From here, head up the arête through some thoughtful 5.10 slab moves.
The next three bolts are A0 through the overhang. Not too reachy. Once you surmount the overhang on aid you’re quickly into the crux of the pitch. Resist the urge to keep aiding and pull through the awkward, balancy mantle. Easier ground and one more bolt await you on the upper slab.
This climb has new bolts and it should be possible to pull through most of the hard moves, so get on it!
Walk off or rappel down the face with double ropes. The first rap anchor is in a chimney climber’s left of the top out and is fairly obvious.