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Fog Ducker Spire
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 12
votes
Routes in Slhanay
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bonsai Tree T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dean Channel, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deep Impact T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flutterby ridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free Dimensional T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Godforsaken direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Game, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hollow Men, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nonsensical S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open project. The Hollow Men-P1 TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Skyline Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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White Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Glenn Woloski |
| Page Views: | 2,040 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Casey Engstrom on May 26, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
An enjoyable romp up the arete behind Photophobia with nice views and exposure. Cracks, face, flakes this route has it all.
P1: (40m) The 11a crux comes in the first 10m of the climb, hard moves past two bolts. Then pull right around the arete to easier 5.7 climbing, finish at a comfy stump-seat belay below the slot. Alternative belay 3/4 way up on the left (can't see from below).
P2: (30m) 5.9+ Head up crack to the left facing corner (wedge-shaped slot) with a chockstone "roof". At first glance the corner looks hideously wide, but actually takes easy pro in a variety of sizes. Below chockstone, take diagonal crack left to belay ledge.
P3: (40m) 5.10 Head right to corner then up wide crack, then face climb right past a bolt, then climb the hand cracky flake fins, yank on the shark fin to obtain the nice belay ledge / slot. Alternatively, go left at the bolt on the arete for intermediate belay station at the base of Free Dimensional (13+).
P4: (30m) 5.10 Money$$ pitch. From belay, head right to hand splitter, couple face moves over two bolts heading slightly left to broken flakes, then slightly right past third bolt, up beside large left facing corner, take the steep ramp/undercling out left (exposed). Reach an alcove, then thin move to clip a bolt. From this spot, reach right and make your way up to the finish. Alternatively clip first bolt and head left up thin crack/ seam (5.11).
Descent: 5 raps with 70m (second rap just barely reaches TIE KNOTS), 6 with 60m.
P1: (40m) The 11a crux comes in the first 10m of the climb, hard moves past two bolts. Then pull right around the arete to easier 5.7 climbing, finish at a comfy stump-seat belay below the slot. Alternative belay 3/4 way up on the left (can't see from below).
P2: (30m) 5.9+ Head up crack to the left facing corner (wedge-shaped slot) with a chockstone "roof". At first glance the corner looks hideously wide, but actually takes easy pro in a variety of sizes. Below chockstone, take diagonal crack left to belay ledge.
P3: (40m) 5.10 Head right to corner then up wide crack, then face climb right past a bolt, then climb the hand cracky flake fins, yank on the shark fin to obtain the nice belay ledge / slot. Alternatively, go left at the bolt on the arete for intermediate belay station at the base of Free Dimensional (13+).
P4: (30m) 5.10 Money$$ pitch. From belay, head right to hand splitter, couple face moves over two bolts heading slightly left to broken flakes, then slightly right past third bolt, up beside large left facing corner, take the steep ramp/undercling out left (exposed). Reach an alcove, then thin move to clip a bolt. From this spot, reach right and make your way up to the finish. Alternatively clip first bolt and head left up thin crack/ seam (5.11).
Descent: 5 raps with 70m (second rap just barely reaches TIE KNOTS), 6 with 60m.
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