Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,227 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||Casey Engstrom on May 26, 2018|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Significant rockfall was reported July 6, 2021 from the Photophobia Buttress Area. Climbing routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather are currently closed until further assessments can be made.
For a map of the closure area, please see: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
P1: (40m) The 11a crux comes in the first 10m of the climb, hard moves past two bolts. Then pull right around the arete to easier 5.7 climbing, finish at a comfy stump-seat belay below the slot. Alternative belay 3/4 way up on the left (can't see from below).
P2: (30m) 5.9+ Head up crack to the left facing corner (wedge-shaped slot) with a chockstone "roof". At first glance the corner looks hideously wide, but actually takes easy pro in a variety of sizes. Below chockstone, take diagonal crack left to belay ledge.
P3: (40m) 5.10 Head right to corner then up wide crack, then face climb right past a bolt, then climb the hand cracky flake fins, yank on the shark fin to obtain the nice belay ledge / slot. Alternatively, go left at the bolt on the arete for intermediate belay station at the base of Free Dimensional (13+).
P4: (30m) 5.10 Money$$ pitch. From belay, head right to hand splitter, couple face moves over two bolts heading slightly left to broken flakes, then slightly right past third bolt, up beside large left facing corner, take the steep ramp/undercling out left (exposed). Reach an alcove, then thin move to clip a bolt. From this spot, reach right and make your way up to the finish. Alternatively clip first bolt and head left up thin crack/ seam (5.11).
Descent: 5 raps with 70m (second rap just barely reaches TIE KNOTS), 6 with 60m.