Type: Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Glenn Woloski
Page Views: 257 total · 39/month
Shared By: Casey Engstrom on May 26, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

An enjoyable romp up the arete behind Photophobia with nice views and exposure. Cracks, face, flakes this route has it all.

P1: (40m) The 11a crux comes in the first 10m of the climb, hard moves past two bolts. Then pull right around the arete to easier 5.7 climbing, finish at a comfy stump-seat belay below the slot. Alternative belay 3/4 way up on the left (can't see from below).

P2: (30m) 5.9+ Head up crack to the left facing corner (wedge-shaped slot) with a chockstone "roof". At first glance the corner looks hideously wide, but actually takes easy pro in a variety of sizes. Below chockstone, take diagonal crack left to belay ledge.

P3: (40m) 5.10 Head right to corner then up wide crack, then face climb right past a bolt, then climb the hand cracky flake fins, yank on the shark fin to obtain the nice belay ledge / slot. Alternatively, go left at the bolt on the arete for intermediate belay station at the base of Free Dimensional (13+).

P4: (30m) 5.10 Money$$ pitch. From belay, head right to hand splitter, couple face moves over two bolts heading slightly left to broken flakes, then slightly right past third bolt, up beside large left facing corner, take the steep ramp/undercling out left (exposed). Reach an alcove, then thin move to clip a bolt. From this spot, reach right and make your way up to the finish. Alternatively clip first bolt and head left up thin crack/ seam (5.11).

Descent: 5 raps with 70m (second rap just barely reaches TIE KNOTS), 6 with 60m.

Location

At Slhaney left, hike up past Photophobia on the faint and already eroding trail, using fixed ropes to ascend through the jungle to the to dead tree at the base of the climb.

Protection

SR to BD camalot #3, doubles #2. Bring extra runners. Bolts protect face moves.

Photos

wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
 
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
 
Did this yesterday and have to say we were pleasantly surprised on the quality of this route. Super fun, sequential, short lived crux. A brutish 5.9+ offwidth chimney thing that's not really an offwidth or a chimney. Super exciting facial step over that was the mental crux for me (getting the bolt clipped) and more awesome flakey double crack goodness. We had to bail at short anchors, after doing Photophobia and the sharkfin portion of FDA, we hit sun on the last half pitch in 95 degree scorching yuck but the climbing looked good above, we will return on a cooler day to finish it up. Props to the folks who found this unlikely clean streak. Keep those Squamish classics coming! PS, what on earth are they doing to those dogs down there!? Aug 9, 2018