Avg: 3 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||861 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Casey Engstrom on May 26, 2018|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1: (40m) The 11a crux comes in the first 10m of the climb, hard moves past two bolts. Then pull right around the arete to easier 5.7 climbing, finish at a comfy stump-seat belay below the slot. Alternative belay 3/4 way up on the left (can't see from below).
P2: (30m) 5.9+ Head up crack to the left facing corner (wedge-shaped slot) with a chockstone "roof". At first glance the corner looks hideously wide, but actually takes easy pro in a variety of sizes. Below chockstone, take diagonal crack left to belay ledge.
P3: (40m) 5.10 Head right to corner then up wide crack, then face climb right past a bolt, then climb the hand cracky flake fins, yank on the shark fin to obtain the nice belay ledge / slot. Alternatively, go left at the bolt on the arete for intermediate belay station at the base of Free Dimensional (13+).
P4: (30m) 5.10 Money$$ pitch. From belay, head right to hand splitter, couple face moves over two bolts heading slightly left to broken flakes, then slightly right past third bolt, up beside large left facing corner, take the steep ramp/undercling out left (exposed). Reach an alcove, then thin move to clip a bolt. From this spot, reach right and make your way up to the finish. Alternatively clip first bolt and head left up thin crack/ seam (5.11).
Descent: 5 raps with 70m (second rap just barely reaches TIE KNOTS), 6 with 60m.