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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Harry Young, Robin Barley
Page Views: 992 total, 28/month
Shared By: Hans on Jan 25, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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The Route

On the main wall of Slhanay, the Great Drain is located just right of the Great Game and is a yet another nice moderate climb on this crag.

P1: 35m, 5.7 Climb a nice corner crack to a small ledge and a bolted anchor. This pitch is shared with Deviant's Games.



P2: 30m, 5.10b Climb up a wide flake. Deviant's Games heads right here. For the Great Drain, continue up towards an offwidth and squeeze chimney in a corner. Some laybacking mitigates using much actual offwidth trickery, and no big gear is required as the wide part is fully protected by bolts. For comparison, I found this to be much easier than the chimney pitch on Borderline.





P3: 40m, 5.10a Climb up through some somewhat hollow flakes to a crack that leads up and right to the belay. Alternately, instead of going right it is possible to go left and join in with pitch 3 of the Great Game and finish as for that route.

Two options are possible for the rest of the climb.

Option A (recommended)

P4: 15m, 5.10c Climb up and left on a slab past 3-4 bolts to the belay at the end of pitch 3 of the Great Game.

P5: 35m, 5.10c Climb up though a short overhanging face on big holds past two bolts, then follow cracks and slabby ledges up and right. Belay at trees. Mostly easy with a short crux right at the beginning. This is the final pitch of the Great Game.

Option B

P4-5: Easy fifth Climb up and right over slabby ledges and discontinuous cracks, eventually joining in with the finish of Jungle Warfare

Descend via the marked trail back to the base of the route. A 4th class down climb through a chimney is required. Alternatively, hike up the trail towards the summit until you find a trail branching climber's right. This trail leads to the base with no technical difficulty.

Location

Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR to reach the main wall. The Great Drain begins just right of where the trail reaches the base of the wall.

Gear

A typical Squamish rack (e.g. set of cams from BD 0.2 to 3 or equivalent, nuts, slings) will suffice. Double up on BD 0.75 and 1 or equivalent.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Fun route, but nowhere near as classic as Great Game.

P1 - Easy 5.7 cracks
P2 - You can't see the meat of the pitch above. Moderate cracks take you to the base of the chimney. It took me a second to realize there was a bolt around and left on the slab. Crux for me was clipping the second bolt. And then laybacking madness up the rest of the bolts. Good fun!
P3 - The first half of this pitch is definitely a bit spooky with the loose flakes. We continued up the Great Game proper rather than switch to the Great Game, but next time I'd jump over to Great Game instead. You really only miss out on the next slab pitch, and in exchange you get the mega corner of Great Game! :)
P4 - Four bolts protected crunchy slab climbing to the base of the final pitch of Great Game.
P5 - Overhanging thuggery up the great game!

We brought a #4 and ended up using it on P3, but not sure it was required. P2 really only took a few pieces before the bolts. Aug 17, 2017