Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Harry Young, Robin Barley
Page Views: 1,583 total · 30/month
Shared By: Hans Bauck on Jan 25, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

The Route

On the main wall of Slhanay, the Great Drain is located just right of the Great Game and is a yet another nice moderate climb on this crag.

P1: 35m, 5.7 Climb a nice corner crack to a small ledge and a bolted anchor. This pitch is shared with Deviant's Games.

The 5.7 crack of Pitch 1 of The Great Drain.

P2: 30m, 5.10b Climb up a wide flake. Deviant's Games heads right here. For the Great Drain, continue up towards an offwidth and squeeze chimney in a corner. Some laybacking mitigates using much actual offwidth trickery, and no big gear is required as the wide part is fully protected by bolts. For comparison, I found this to be much easier than the chimney pitch on Borderline.

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Pitch 2 of The Great Drain

P3: 40m, 5.10a Climb up through some somewhat hollow flakes to a crack that leads up and right to the belay. Alternately, instead of going right it is possible to go left and join in with pitch 3 of the Great Game and finish as for that route.

Two options are possible for the rest of the climb.

Option A (recommended)

P4: 15m, 5.10c Climb up and left on a slab past 3-4 bolts to the belay at the end of pitch 3 of the Great Game.

P5: 35m, 5.10c Climb up though a short overhanging face on big holds past two bolts, then follow cracks and slabby ledges up and right. Belay at trees. Mostly easy with a short crux right at the beginning. This is the final pitch of the Great Game.

Option B

P4-5: Easy fifth Climb up and right over slabby ledges and discontinuous cracks, eventually joining in with the finish of Jungle Warfare

Descend via the marked trail back to the base of the route. A 4th class down climb through a chimney is required. Alternatively, hike up the trail towards the summit until you find a trail branching climber's right. This trail leads to the base with no technical difficulty.


Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR to reach the main wall. The Great Drain begins just right of where the trail reaches the base of the wall.


A typical Squamish rack (e.g. set of cams from BD 0.2 to 3 or equivalent, nuts, slings) will suffice. Double up on BD 0.75 and 1 or equivalent.


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Fun route, but nowhere near as classic as Great Game.

P1 - Easy 5.7 cracks
P2 - You can't see the meat of the pitch above. Moderate cracks take you to the base of the chimney. It took me a second to realize there was a bolt around and left on the slab. Crux for me was clipping the second bolt. And then laybacking madness up the rest of the bolts. Good fun!
P3 - The first half of this pitch is definitely a bit spooky with the loose flakes. We continued up the Great Game proper rather than switch to the Great Game, but next time I'd jump over to Great Game instead. You really only miss out on the next slab pitch, and in exchange you get the mega corner of Great Game! :)
P4 - Four bolts protected crunchy slab climbing to the base of the final pitch of Great Game.
P5 - Overhanging thuggery up the great game!

We brought a #4 and ended up using it on P3, but not sure it was required. P2 really only took a few pieces before the bolts. Aug 17, 2017