All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw)
The Great Drain
Avg: 3 from 9 votes
Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)
|Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0|
|Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Harry Young, Robin Barley|
|Page Views:||992 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||Hans on Jan 25, 2015|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
The RouteOn the main wall of Slhanay, the Great Drain is located just right of the Great Game and is a yet another nice moderate climb on this crag.
P1: 35m, 5.7 Climb a nice corner crack to a small ledge and a bolted anchor. This pitch is shared with Deviant's Games.
P2: 30m, 5.10b Climb up a wide flake. Deviant's Games heads right here. For the Great Drain, continue up towards an offwidth and squeeze chimney in a corner. Some laybacking mitigates using much actual offwidth trickery, and no big gear is required as the wide part is fully protected by bolts. For comparison, I found this to be much easier than the chimney pitch on Borderline.
P3: 40m, 5.10a Climb up through some somewhat hollow flakes to a crack that leads up and right to the belay. Alternately, instead of going right it is possible to go left and join in with pitch 3 of the Great Game and finish as for that route.
Two options are possible for the rest of the climb.
Option A (recommended)
P4: 15m, 5.10c Climb up and left on a slab past 3-4 bolts to the belay at the end of pitch 3 of the Great Game.
P5: 35m, 5.10c Climb up though a short overhanging face on big holds past two bolts, then follow cracks and slabby ledges up and right. Belay at trees. Mostly easy with a short crux right at the beginning. This is the final pitch of the Great Game.
P4-5: Easy fifth Climb up and right over slabby ledges and discontinuous cracks, eventually joining in with the finish of Jungle Warfare
Descend via the marked trail back to the base of the route. A 4th class down climb through a chimney is required. Alternatively, hike up the trail towards the summit until you find a trail branching climber's right. This trail leads to the base with no technical difficulty.