Avg: 3 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Harry Young, Robin Barley|
|Page Views:||2,292 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Hans Bauck on Jan 25, 2015|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1: 35m, 5.7 Climb a nice corner crack to a small ledge and a bolted anchor. This pitch is shared with Deviant's Games.
The 5.7 crack of Pitch 1 of The Great Drain.
P2: 30m, 5.10b Climb up a wide flake. Deviant's Games heads right here. For the Great Drain, continue up towards an offwidth and squeeze chimney in a corner. Some laybacking mitigates using much actual offwidth trickery, and no big gear is required as the wide part is fully protected by bolts. For comparison, I found this to be much easier than the chimney pitch on Borderline.
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Pitch 2 of The Great Drain
P3: 40m, 5.10a Climb up through some somewhat hollow flakes to a crack that leads up and right to the belay. Alternately, instead of going right it is possible to go left and join in with pitch 3 of the Great Game and finish as for that route.
Two options are possible for the rest of the climb.
Option A (recommended)
P4: 15m, 5.10c Climb up and left on a slab past 3-4 bolts to the belay at the end of pitch 3 of the Great Game.
P5: 35m, 5.10c Climb up though a short overhanging face on big holds past two bolts, then follow cracks and slabby ledges up and right. Belay at trees. Mostly easy with a short crux right at the beginning. This is the final pitch of the Great Game.
P4-5: Easy fifth Climb up and right over slabby ledges and discontinuous cracks, eventually joining in with the finish of Jungle Warfare
Descend via the marked trail back to the base of the route. A 4th class down climb through a chimney is required. Alternatively, hike up the trail towards the summit until you find a trail branching climber's right. This trail leads to the base with no technical difficulty.