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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Robin Barley, Kevin McClane ('83)
Page Views: 3,332 total, 28/month
Shared By: Drew Peterson on Feb 10, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

This 4-pitch route is named the easiest multi-pitch climb on the Squaw (at 10a) and the crux is right in your face, right away. Bomber gear sets you up for a steep bulging crack (10a) that eventually leads to an easier crack up to a belay (5.8ish). There are Rap anchors to the right of the top of the first pitch where you can rap to the ground with one 60m rope.

Pitch 2: Follow the crack out left up past a bit of offwidth to a large tree on a good ledge. Belay here. 5.7

Pitch 3: Climb up the face cracks or the corner crack and then continue up a thin layback and above to the base of a right diagonal traverse. 5.9

Pitch 4: Make your way up the diagonal traverse, arond the corner, then back up diagonally left to the top. 5.6 Scramble up a bit more to the top.

Location

Jungle Warfare is located about 50 feet to the right (south) of where the approach trail meets the bottom of the Squaw. A blocky start leads to a crack than then disappears around a corner. If you have to dramatically hike uphill, you've probably gone too far.

Protection

Solid Squamish granite provides fine placements: Bring a large piece (#3 or 4) for the crux of the first pitch, the rest is mostly hands. I would encourage doubling up on .75's - 2's.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
First pitch is great fun, and the other pitches are pretty fun as well. Just for curiosity, we rapped down Flight Simulator after the 5.7 ramp (P4 in the Select Guide). After the 5.7 ramp pitch you'll see bolts rigged to rap. Rap down to the climber's right (skier's left) a bit to the next set of rap rings . 4 raps, all less than 30m to the ground. You'll land right uphill of your packs.

I has happy to have a #4 camalot - found plenty of places for it. Aug 10, 2017
drsoc
 
drsoc  
 
I had a lot of fun on this. One of the funnest 5.9 pitches I've climbed. Easy descent. Sep 10, 2016
Sketty
  5.10a
Sketty  
  5.10a
Fantastic route - thought this was much more fun than either Diedre or Skywalker since the climbing is much more varied - plus we were the only people on the route during prime Squam season. Glad I had the #4 and placed it on every pitch, but the protection was abundant throughout the whole climb.

I can't imagine how bad the rope drag must have been before the intermediate anchors were installed on p1 right after the .10a portion, especially since the route traverses right around a second corner after the 5.8 lieback section of p1 (I tried to go left at first before I saw the bolts for the 10d slab next door).

Couple thoughts:

1) Definitely link p4 & p5 - even combined they both seemed shorter than any other pitch, plus p5 is like 25ft of 5.4 non-exposed protectable slab.

2) Descent beta: the easy walk off heads directly into the woods for about 40ft once you finish p5. You'll see a tree with one of those orange triangle markers nailed about head-height and then take the sharp left turn at the fork to walk uphill. Once you get up a ways and see the second fork (which goes three ways), you can take the left-most fork and check out the incredible view, or take the right-most fork to hit the descent trail. There will be one last fork another few hundred feet down the descent trail - trend right, since the left fork goes towards the chief. Sep 1, 2016
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
 
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
 
On the descent, after you traverse right off the climb into the woods, there is a very tempting, well traveled trail that appears immediately. We did not take this. We hiked up about 100 ft to meet the descent trail and followed it back down to the base, which was very easy and straightforward. Aug 19, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
First pitch was great. We split the first pitch proper into two pitches, belaying at the bolted belay to minimize any rope drag. I was happy to have a #4 camalot... plenty of places to place it.

We linked the 5.7 ramp to the 50' slab finishing pitch without any drag. Traverse off to climber's right from there.

Unless you want to do the old "Tunnel Descent", be sure to walk up about 200 yards once you traverse into the descent gully. The tunnel descent goes, but it isn't exactly pleasant... and probably a bit dangerous as those stacked blocks move. Aug 1, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Anchor update: There is now a two-bolt anchor above the bulge, before the 5.7 handcrack part of pitch one. I suppose this was put in because, as I understand, many people break p1 into two because of rope drag after the initial cruxy section.

In addition, the tree that used to separate p1 proper from p2 has been chopped. This is the section right before the slippery polished bit of p2. While it's probably a good idea for route cleaning purposes, it's not exactly an ideal gear belay spot...there is a crack but it's kind of weird and uneven. I suppose to compensate for this, "somebody" stuck a staple around the corner. It's my opinion that if a new two-bolt anchor was to be included on this route, replacing the tree would be a better option than where the new anchor was placed. Trying to climb straight from the lower bolted anchor to the big tree was *not* a good idea. Despite placing few pieces, using slings liberally and downclimbing to unclip pieces, I experienced a level of rope drag in the offwidth bit unlike anything I've experienced. I was not happy about the state of things at this point. (Edit: Drew's description describes rap anchors to the right of the top of p1. If this is the case I just missed them.)

Great fun though, I was pleasantly surprised. I've heard this route trashed a lot, but there's tons of really fun climbing on beautiful stone. The first few pitches get a lot of shade too, which is great for those hot days. Would climb again. As fun as Rock On and Hairpin.

A bit confused by why all the topos split p3 and p4 into two with a gear belay. It seemed very natural to link them together, from the big tree to the bolts. Extend some pieces on the early hand crack, don't over-protect the upper traverse and it's an easy connection with a 60m. I wonder if you could link the upper 5.4 scramble as well with a 70m. Probably depends on whether you placed anything on the traverse.

I was surprised by how near the end of the route was to the anchor of p4. So surprised that I kept climbing. I don't recommend this. First opportunity to escape right (say, after 10m or so), do so. Just remember that, once you get into the woods, you have to hike up to walk out. Otherwise you'll be taking the gully descent.

Make sure to grab some blueberries from the bush sticking out from the top of the twin cracks of p3. Jul 22, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Pulling the steepness at the start is great fun. The rest of the pitches are worth going through but, not terribly exciting. Oct 1, 2012
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
The first pitch was the most exciting. Pretty mellow and enjoyable after that, although the polished section on the 5.8 pitch got our adrenaline pumping again for a few minutes.

We did not take a #4 cam but wished we had as there seemed to be a place on every pitch where you'd want one.

See comment on Birds of Prey route for new descent information. Jul 28, 2010
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
Good route. Solid and classic 5.8 cracks for most of the climb. Aug 31, 2009