Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Robin Barley, Kevin McClane ('83)
Page Views: 4,520 total · 33/month
Shared By: Drew Peterson on Feb 10, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This 4-pitch route is named the easiest multi-pitch climb on the Squaw (at 10a) and the crux is right in your face, right away. Bomber gear sets you up for a steep bulging crack (10a) that eventually leads to an easier crack up to a belay (5.8ish). There are Rap anchors to the right of the top of the first pitch where you can rap to the ground with one 60m rope.

Pitch 2: Follow the crack out left up past a bit of offwidth to a large tree on a good ledge. Belay here. 5.7

Pitch 3: Climb up the face cracks or the corner crack and then continue up a thin layback and above to the base of a right diagonal traverse. 5.9

Pitch 4: Make your way up the diagonal traverse, arond the corner, then back up diagonally left to the top. 5.6 Scramble up a bit more to the top.

Location

Jungle Warfare is located about 50 feet to the right (south) of where the approach trail meets the bottom of the Squaw. A blocky start leads to a crack than then disappears around a corner. If you have to dramatically hike uphill, you've probably gone too far.

Protection

Solid Squamish granite provides fine placements: Bring a large piece (#3 or 4) for the crux of the first pitch, the rest is mostly hands. I would encourage doubling up on .75's - 2's.

Photos