Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,173 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Jan 8, 2015 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is a 2 pitch alternative right of the Great Drain. Or 3 pitch if you continue across a slab to the Great Game anchor below the 2 bolt overhanging move.
Anywhere else it would be a great route, but does not compare to Great Game or other classic routes here, also is dirty from lack of traffic.
pitch 1: Great Drain corner, a nice 5.7 crack, 35m.
pitch 2: Start up 2nd p. of GD, deviate right before the OW onto face following small cracks. 10a/b, 30-40m. This zigzags right, then left, more or less straight up, if you go too far right you will end up on Games Idiots Play with some old bolts visible.
pitch 3: more small and hand cracks, 5 old bolts on blunt arete/slab. crux feels run-out with committing moves to uncertain holds and bolts, 10c, 30-40m
pitch 4: this belay is where the Great Drain crosses from left to right and follows ramp to Jungle Warfare, 5.7, 60m or do in 2 pitch's, or staying at the grade and cross slabs above the belay and run into the Great Game, 10c, 5 old bolts, 20m, ( pretty fun for this non slab oriented climber)There is a bolted rap. station here.
Anywhere else it would be a great route, but does not compare to Great Game or other classic routes here, also is dirty from lack of traffic.
pitch 1: Great Drain corner, a nice 5.7 crack, 35m.
pitch 2: Start up 2nd p. of GD, deviate right before the OW onto face following small cracks. 10a/b, 30-40m. This zigzags right, then left, more or less straight up, if you go too far right you will end up on Games Idiots Play with some old bolts visible.
pitch 3: more small and hand cracks, 5 old bolts on blunt arete/slab. crux feels run-out with committing moves to uncertain holds and bolts, 10c, 30-40m
pitch 4: this belay is where the Great Drain crosses from left to right and follows ramp to Jungle Warfare, 5.7, 60m or do in 2 pitch's, or staying at the grade and cross slabs above the belay and run into the Great Game, 10c, 5 old bolts, 20m, ( pretty fun for this non slab oriented climber)There is a bolted rap. station here.
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