Godforsaken direct
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | FA p2,p3 Colin Moorhead, Tom Wright 2017 |
Page Views: | 207 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Gabriel Viel-Côté on Sep 23, 2023 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Excellent climb that deserve more traffic.
Pitch by Pitch:
5.10c, 40m. The first pitch of Great Game. Ascend left trending layback ramp to a typical Squamish finger crack/traverse crux followed by straight in hands.
5.12a, 40m. Finger traverse and mantle directly into the vertical, gold corner. Sustained, technical climbing persists past closely spaced bolts, as the angle kicks back a final exciting 5.10+ crux returns you to the corner whereupon a finger crack opens up in the back allowing for 20 meters of pleasant romping to a well crafted belay ledge.
5.11a, 25m. Move right and up flake to access an undercling crack that divides the steep headwall, positve grips and decent feet lead back left, just as climbing starts to feel desperate positive incuts appear that lead you to the arete. A final crux bulge on dueling finger cracks leads to small belay stance.
5.10d, 35m. Continue up curving crack across slab into main corner system skipping an intermediate anchor. Climb into the base of the obvious beak flake, make committing and exposed moves right into an offset corner system. Steep, wild moves lead to an awesome overhanging, juggy traverse finish. Solid for the grade and one of the best 5.10 pitches in Squamish.
More info: squamishrockguides.com/godf…
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