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Flight Simulator
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 8
votes
Routes in Slhanay
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bonsai Tree T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dean Channel, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deep Impact T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flutterby ridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free Dimensional T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Godforsaken direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Game, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hollow Men, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nonsensical S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open project. The Hollow Men-P1 TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Skyline Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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White Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Robin Barley, David Davies, 1983 FFA Craig McGee, Lori Obare, Brad White, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 2,783 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Once you see the second pitch corner from the ground, it's hard not to want to climb it. The other pitches are fine too and the crux pitch, move for move, may be harder, but the corner is certainly the focal point of this climb.
P1: Short, slightly flaring finger and thin hand crack. If the second pitch is .11d, this one is probably more like .10d or .11a. In any case, the crux is short lived.
P2: Bolted slab climbing leads to a tough move entering the corner. The crack in the clean, shallow corner is thin, incipient and the climbing very technical. The crux is even thinner and when the corner disappears you really have to battle it out to get the jams to stick. Classy!
P3: Three bolts protect a face that appears to blank out as it moves up and right towards a horizontal crack. This section is crimpy, but magical granite foot moves are the real key to success. The climbing eases above the horizontal and heads back left to another anchor.
P4: A short and slightly painful finger crack in a flare eases quickly to a fun thin hand crack. Rap the route or belay and move up a little and walk off to the right. It's also possible to keep climbing up through an easy little bulge to the top of Slhanay and walk off from there.
P1: Short, slightly flaring finger and thin hand crack. If the second pitch is .11d, this one is probably more like .10d or .11a. In any case, the crux is short lived.
P2: Bolted slab climbing leads to a tough move entering the corner. The crack in the clean, shallow corner is thin, incipient and the climbing very technical. The crux is even thinner and when the corner disappears you really have to battle it out to get the jams to stick. Classy!
P3: Three bolts protect a face that appears to blank out as it moves up and right towards a horizontal crack. This section is crimpy, but magical granite foot moves are the real key to success. The climbing eases above the horizontal and heads back left to another anchor.
P4: A short and slightly painful finger crack in a flare eases quickly to a fun thin hand crack. Rap the route or belay and move up a little and walk off to the right. It's also possible to keep climbing up through an easy little bulge to the top of Slhanay and walk off from there.
Location
The first pitch is the obvious short, clean, flaring finger crack around to the right and up the trail a little from Supernatural and Jungle Warfare. One could easily rap the route with one 70m rope (possibly even a 60m if careful on the P2-P1 rap) or just as easily walk off as per the aforementioned routes or the Great Game/Drain. The walkoff begins just a few feet above the final anchor.
Protection
A single rack to blue #3 Camalot with extra finger size pieces was sufficient. Nuts provide extra options and are useful but may not be strictly necessary; I believe I placed a total of two on the climb and the RP's didn't get any use. Anchors are all bolted and equipped for easy rappels with a single 70m rope. The rock on Slhanay is coarsely grained with a lot of sharp quartz crystals; this climb is slightly painful at times and tape might be desirable, especially on P2. If it's sunny, the crux face pitch feels harder than it should.
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