All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw)
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Robin Barley, David Davies, 1983 FFA Craig McGee, Lori Obare, Brad White, 2003|
|Page Views:||533 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionOnce you see the second pitch corner from the ground, it's hard not to want to climb it. The other pitches are fine too and the crux pitch, move for move, may be harder, but the corner is certainly the focal point of this climb.
P1: Short, slightly flaring finger and thin hand crack. If the second pitch is .11d, this one is probably more like .10d or .11a. In any case, the crux is short lived.
P2: Bolted slab climbing leads to a tough move entering the corner. The crack in the clean, shallow corner is thin, incipient and the climbing very technical. The crux is even thinner and when the corner disappears you really have to battle it out to get the jams to stick. Classy!
P3: Three bolts protect a face that appears to blank out as it moves up and right towards a horizontal crack. This section is crimpy, but magical granite foot moves are the real key to success. The climbing eases above the horizontal and heads back left to another anchor.
P4: A short and slightly painful finger crack in a flare eases quickly to a fun thin hand crack. Rap the route or belay and move up a little and walk off to the right. It's also possible to keep climbing up through an easy little bulge to the top of Slhanay and walk off from there.