Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Milward, Jim Campbell (1983)
Page Views: 9,245 total · 52/month
Shared By: Ian Wolfe on Jul 25, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

Two pitches of a low-angle 5.8 crack that undulates from (mostly) fingers to hands leads up to the base of the steeper headwall. These pitches can be combined with a 70m rope or a little bit of simul-climbing. There are 2 bolts at the top of this pitch and several sets of rap slings, so it is possible to descend from this point. I found it most comfortable to belay from the large tree a few feet below the bolts. Next climb the amazing 5.10b handcrack in the huge corner strait up, then traverse left to a tree with rap slings. Belay here if rope drag is bad, if not continue up another 40 feet of easy ground to the base of a large, featured left-facing corner. This is 5.10 a with a 5.8 chimney finish, but this pitch is almost always climbed in one pitch.

Location

From the top of the approach trail walk left along the base of the wall past The Great Game, and onto a large slab with an obvious, worn handcrack.

Protection

One set of cams up to a 2 or 3 camalot, and a set of nuts, plus 10 or 12 trad draws.

Photos