Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Colin Moorhead, Kinley Aitken 2011
Page Views: 1,079 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 29, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This is an incredible route, with each pitch offering a different type of challenge. You definitely get the whole spectrum of Squamish climbing in these 5 pitches.
P1 (10d): This is the the 1st pitch of Straight Outta Squampton. Climb easily up to a small roof and pull out left into a good flake. Follow the flake up and step right into a right-facing corner which leads to an intimidating little roof. Go left around the roof and climb more thin cracks to a bolted belay (30m).
P2 (11a): Climb some face cracks above the belay and then move left into a wide undercling/chimney (the Hirvonen Slot). Prepare for a full body pump as you grind your way up the flare. There are 3 bolts and some gear in the back of the chimney. At the top of the slot, move right to anchors (25m)
P3 (11b): Follow thin cracks and make a series of left traverses. The thin-hands crux comes towards the end just as you are losing steam. This is an outstanding pitch and is quite sustained. (35m)
P4 (10b): The climb changes character now - this pitch face climbs up over a few bulges (20m).
P5 (11a): The angle kicks back but now you'll need to make some slabby moves until you can join the last pitch of Photophobia.

Descent: Rap straight down with a 70m rope. You will end up descending climber's left of the Hirvonen slot. If you have a 60m rope you can rap Photophobia.

Location

Left side of the Slahany. About 20m right of Photophobia.

Protection

I'd recommend a double rack to gold camalot and a single blue. Maybe even triples in finger size for p3.

Photos

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Just for the record the name is Babies in Kailand not Babes in Kailand.

Originally a Kai Hirvonen project until the arrival of two beautiful baby girls side tracked his FA dreams. Nov 21, 2015
My man Tim-Tam recommends triples in the finger sizes but I think it's more important to have more of the bigger sizes between .75 and 2... but a double rack on P1 just sufficed for me and would certainly suffice for a better climber than me (which is pretty much everyone).
This is a stellar route. The slot is intimidating but pretty conceivable if you just relax and focus on the problem-solving and the top was filthy/mossy/gungy post-rain but entailed terrific climbing.
The route is only let down by the fact that many of the cruxes are located just prior to or moving away from the anchor chains. Apr 30, 2016
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
11b pitch is epic and mega sustained, and near vertical. I broke a knob off near the start of the route but it didn't seem to impact the difficulty that much.

Rack recommendation: single red x4, doubles to #3, 1 #3, plus supplemental fingers to .75 or #1 for the third (above) pitch. All cams sizes in BD

Linked the two pitches above P3 (p4, p5) with a 60m. May even be possible with to link through the three bolted anchors (to top of photophobia) with a 70m. You only need a #1 for the these last three pitches. Jun 6, 2017
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Jeremy Park   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Has the potential to be an awesome route if more people climbed it and the first pitch got cleared of a few more flakes (read death cookies). Pitch 2 and 3 are definitely the money pitches and linking the last two pitches to the anchor for photo phobia is advised May 23, 2018