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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Colin Moorhead, Kinley Aitken 2011
Page Views: 699 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 29, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

This is an incredible route, with each pitch offering a different type of challenge. You definitely get the whole spectrum of Squamish climbing in these 5 pitches.
P1 (10d): This is the the 1st pitch of Straight Outta Squampton. Climb easily up to a small roof and pull out left into a good flake. Follow the flake up and step right into a right-facing corner which leads to an intimidating little roof. Go left around the roof and climb more thin cracks to a bolted belay (30m).
P2 (11a): Climb some face cracks above the belay and then move left into a wide undercling/chimney (the Hirvonen Slot). Prepare for a full body pump as you grind your way up the flare. There are 3 bolts and some gear in the back of the chimney. At the top of the slot, move right to anchors (25m)
P3 (11b): Follow thin cracks and make a series of left traverses. The thin-hands crux comes towards the end just as you are losing steam. This is an outstanding pitch and is quite sustained. (35m)
P4 (10b): The climb changes character now - this pitch face climbs up over a few bulges (20m).
P5 (11a): The angle kicks back but now you'll need to make some slabby moves until you can join the last pitch of Photophobia.

Descent: Rap straight down with a 70m rope. You will end up descending climber's left of the Hirvonen slot. If you have a 60m rope you can rap Photophobia.

Location

Left side of the Slahany. About 20m right of Photophobia.

Protection

I'd recommend a double rack to gold camalot and a single blue. Maybe even triples in finger size for p3.

Photos

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Just for the record the name is Babies in Kailand not Babes in Kailand.

Originally a Kai Hirvonen project until the arrival of two beautiful baby girls side tracked his FA dreams. Nov 21, 2015
My man Tim-Tam recommends triples in the finger sizes but I think it's more important to have more of the bigger sizes between .75 and 2... but a double rack on P1 just sufficed for me and would certainly suffice for a better climber than me (which is pretty much everyone).
This is a stellar route. The slot is intimidating but pretty conceivable if you just relax and focus on the problem-solving and the top was filthy/mossy/gungy post-rain but entailed terrific climbing.
The route is only let down by the fact that many of the cruxes are located just prior to or moving away from the anchor chains. Apr 30, 2016
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
11b pitch is epic and mega sustained, and near vertical. I broke a knob off near the start of the route but it didn't seem to impact the difficulty that much.

Rack recommendation: single red x4, doubles to #3, 1 #3, plus supplemental fingers to .75 or #1 for the third (above) pitch. All cams sizes in BD

Linked the two pitches above P3 (p4, p5) with a 60m. May even be possible with to link through the three bolted anchors (to top of photophobia) with a 70m. You only need a #1 for the these last three pitches. Jun 6, 2017

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