Type: Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches
FA: Glenn Woloski
Page Views: 4,036 total · 33/month
Shared By: Hans Bauck on May 29, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines Details
Access Issue: SLHANAY ROCK FALL CLOSURE - SEPT 20th 2021 Details

Description

On the left side of Slhanay, Photophobia was put up in 2011 and is a great addition to a crag already full of good moderates.

P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.

The crux corner of the first pitch of Photophobia, Slhanay, Squamish.

P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.

P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.

Either rappel from here, or ....

P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.

Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.

Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.

Location

Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR. Just before you reach the wall where Birds of Prey, Great Game, etc. are located, a trail leads left. Follow this for a few minutes, reaching another wall with several routes. Photophobia is the leftmost climb.

Protection

A standard Squamish rack to 3" is sufficient. Bring lots of long slings as rope drag can be an issue on pitches one and two. All belays are fixed with bolted rappel anchors. The final pitch is sufficiently protected with bolts.

Photos