All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw)
Avg: 3 from 20 votes
Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)
|Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0|
|Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,203 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||Hans on May 29, 2012|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionOn the left side of Slhanay (the new politically correct name for the Squaw), Photophobia was put up in 2011 and is a great addition to a crag already full of good moderates.
P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.
P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.
Either rappel from here, or ....
P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.
Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.
Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.