All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw)
Avg: 3 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,217 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Hans on May 29, 2012|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionOn the left side of Slhanay (the new politically correct name for the Squaw), Photophobia was put up in 2011 and is a great addition to a crag already full of good moderates.
P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.
P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.
Either rappel from here, or ....
P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.
Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.
Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.