Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Glenn Woloski
Page Views: 2,794 total · 33/month
Shared By: Hans Bauck on May 29, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


On the left side of Slhanay (the new politically correct name for the Squaw), Photophobia was put up in 2011 and is a great addition to a crag already full of good moderates.

P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.

The crux corner of the first pitch of Photophobia, Slhanay, Squamish.

P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.

P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.

Either rappel from here, or ....

P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.

Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.

Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.


Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR. Just before you reach the wall where Birds of Prey, Great Game, etc. are located, a trail leads left. Follow this for a few minutes, reaching another wall with several routes. Photophobia is the leftmost climb.


A standard Squamish rack to 3" is sufficient. Bring lots of long slings as rope drag can be an issue on pitches one and two. All belays are fixed with bolted rappel anchors. The final pitch is sufficiently protected with bolts.


Golden, CO
craigw   Golden, CO
Awesome route. Stays shaded all day long, great for an afternoon outing or second route at the squaw. Do it as 3 long pitches--60 meter route gets you down no problem. Props to Robin and his crew for finding this hidden gem! Jul 20, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route. Definitely not as classic a Rock On or Great Game, but a worthy route nonetheless and guaranteed to be popular.

P1 - 35m. A long, engaging pitch. The final 40' 10b corner is money. Steep, pumpy goodness.

P2 - 15m. Personally, I wouldn't link into the next one - and we didn't. Fun 5.8 climbing gains the next ledge with a bolted belay. If you do continue on and link into P3, be wary of extra hope stretch and hitting the ledges in the crux corner(s).

P3 - 20m. Technically the crux pitch, but the cruxes are short so in some ways I think P1 is the true crux. Work up the stemming above the belay (I found a micronut to be useful) and pull in below the first steep corner. 10b jamming gains the next ledge. And then repeat, only harder, to the belay. I thought the moves were 10c, but the big rest ledges take the edge off. Be careful if you fall though, as the ledges are definitely in play

P4 - 30m. Fun 10a/b corner with the crux at the top.

P5 - 20m. Worth doing once, but I won't be back. #0.5 camalot and 3 bolts to the belay.

We rapped with a single 70m and was fine. The rap down to the bottom of P4 (as described above) would be very close with a 60m, and you have to swing into the belay... so if you do rap with a 60m tie knots. We were able to comfortably skip the next anchor and rap down below the 5.8 pitch with a 70m. Not sure if a 60m would make that. It was then a full 35m to the ground, but with a 60m you could scramble down the dirty gully.

Double rack from small TCUs to #3 camalot and the usual supply of nuts. We may have only placed one #3, but I can't remember. Aug 7, 2012
Jessica T
seattle, wa
Jessica T   seattle, wa
Recommend keep 5.8 separate from the 10d as the guidebook suggests unless you're a confident 10d leader. P1 and p4 are the money pitches. P2 is fun. P3 has short burley cruxes. Last bolted pitch is fun (p5). This is an awesome steep route. Reminds me of index. Jul 22, 2013
Linking the first two pitches is pretty reasonable. P2 is short and easy. I only used one #3 on P2 and that was reasonably safe. We got a little confused after P2. Don't go to the ledge on the left at the top of the pitch. Clip a bolt (not the staple) and climb up to a ledge that's slightly higher. Sep 26, 2013
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
Maybe my expectations were too high -- the bar for a 4-star route in Squamish is pretty high -- but I didn't love very much about this route.

Some sections felt contrived (such as the start with the bolt in a strange place and a deckfall potential), and it wasn't the nicest granite in town except for the last pitch which was short and sweet.

The mismatched hardware was also a detraction. Some stations had one bolt and one glue-in staple instead of a standard two-bolt anchor.

We followed Andy Laakmann's description and were glad to have not linked the 5.8 pitch to the crux pitch.

On P3(per Andy's route description), a #3 cam protects midway through the crux section above the last ledge so don't use it sooner if you brought one. I thought this section felt hard for the grade but maybe my heart wasn't in it because of the ledge looming below. Aug 4, 2015
Climbed this a few years ago and really enjoyed it. It stays shady (except for very last pitch) and has lots of great, fun climbing. I thought 4th pitch (without linking) was 5.10d and the leader must be careful to protect against a ledge-slamming fall. But those moves were fun! I also agree with other comments about the bolt placement on pitch 1 and the stations...they are a bit odd, but that comes with the territory (R. Barley climbs). Still, it is an awesome climb - a must do for confident 5.10 leaders. We rapped with one 70 m rope. Jun 22, 2017
Aaron Nash
North Bend, WA
Aaron Nash   North Bend, WA
Super fun route, definitely worth doing on a hot day! Can confirm that rapping with a 60m works with no issues. May 29, 2018