All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Mamquam FSR > Slhanay

Photophobia

Name: Photophobia
Rating: 3.1

5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Slhanay

L › R R › L A › Z

	Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bonsai Tree T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dean Channel, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Deep Impact T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flutterby ridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Frayed Ends of Sanity T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Free Dimensional T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13
	Godforsaken direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
	Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Great Game, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gremlin, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Hollow Men, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nonsensical S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Open project. The Hollow Men-P1 TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Skyline Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
	Slhanay \| 7461 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Straight Outta' Squampton T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Supernatural T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	White Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type:	Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	49.6945, -123.12156
FA:	Glenn Woloski
Page Views:	5,193 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Hans Bauck on May 29, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: FSR CLOSURE Details

Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…

Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823

Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)

- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.

Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)

- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

On the left side of Slhanay, Photophobia was put up in 2011 and is a great addition to a crag already full of good moderates.

P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.

P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.

P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.

Either rappel from here, or ....

P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.

Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.

Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.

Location

Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR. Just before you reach the wall where Birds of Prey, Great Game, etc. are located, a trail leads left. Follow this for a few minutes, reaching another wall with several routes. Photophobia is the leftmost climb.

Protection

A standard Squamish rack to 3" is sufficient. Bring lots of long slings as rope drag can be an issue on pitches one and two. All belays are fixed with bolted rappel anchors. The final pitch is sufficiently protected with bolts.