Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: pitch 1: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton, Dave Jones, April 1983. Pitch 2: FFA: Peter Shackleton, 1984
Page Views: 1,089 total · 20/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Aug 22, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

I am entering this route for the first pitch, which is 10a.
I had wanted to wait till I completed the second pitch, but the first pitch is so good, you have to do it.
The start can be wet and it is good to have a 70m rope.
The crux is the obvious roof, protects well.

The 2nd pitch is the 11a, and looks dirty.

Location

just left of Jungle Warfare.

Protection

A long pitch ( 35-40m) so lots of gear if you want to sew it up. A double rack to #2 camalot would do, with a set of nuts. The bulk of the pitch is finger size.
There is a good bolted rap station.

The 2nd Pitch has 2 bolts as well. It traverse up and right from the belay, runs into corner of Jungle Warfare in about 15-20m.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Nice write-up, Geoff. Thanks! Jan 7, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
First pitch is fabulous. 70m rope makes the rap no problem. I think a 60m would be tight. Definitely big hands for the last 20 feet or so - so bring a couple 3s (I had a #4 but you can probably do without it). I was concerned about my rope getting pinched in the crack at the lip of the roof, so I dropped in a green camalot right after the lip and put two carabiners on it to keep the rope from going deeper into the crack. I also backcleaned the pieces prior to the roof. Worked great and rope ran smoothly the whole pitch. If you are in the neighborhood and have a 70m rope, jump on it. Aug 10, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.10a
Matt Hagny  
  5.10a
I only did the first pitch, and 10a seems spot-on for the grade for it.

Great line, but a big chunk of it is the same dihedral move over and over :-)
Pulling around the roof was quite interesting (fun). The upper part is wide, but there's a spot for a #1, fortunately, as I didn't have anything bigger on me by then. Aug 29, 2018