Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 5 pitches
FA: L. Patterson, B. Hagen, G. Woodsworth '66, FFA: G. Cameron (solo) 1979
Page Views: 9,660 total, 71/month
Shared By: Bob Graham on Oct 15, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The guidebook calls it, "A magnificant squeeze chimney in a majestic curving dihedral." Climb Birds of Prey onto the slim ramp, and belay. Continue up the steepening ramp, and belay in the offwidth. Then the follow the beautiful sweeping "pipeline" off-width pitch for about 170 ft to the top. This is no a squeeze chimney, I am small and did not fit in it. If you have larger feet you will get heel toe jams.

Location

Walk off/down climb

Protection

big gear the cracks stays pretty much in a very big size from old #5 camalots to new #6 camalots or wild country. Bring some big bros, green and maybe 1 blue. Some small gear for after the crux is helpful although the climbing eases it is a long way to the belay, yellow alien to 1 # camalot I think it was. No anchors at the top, bring long slings to use a tree.
Finally got on this thing after years of hemming and hawing. My first thought is I feel like I don't understand offwidth grades at all, pipeline felt an order of magnitude harder than the "5.11" offwidths of squamish (hypertension, scimitar, boogie). Guess I need more experience in the style...

Matt's write-up is excellent. I ended up placing 2-BD#6, 1-VG9, and 1 #3 big bro (no small stuff needed). Save one of your #6 cams for the final ramp, the VG is too big there. I'll second Matt's suggestion of taping the left knee, and perhaps the left shoulder, seeing as I'm currently nursing gaping holes in both of them.

Anyways, truly an awesome line in an outrageous position. Sep 18, 2017
Drew Marshall
  5.10d
Drew Marshall  
  5.10d
2 #6's, a VG9 and some double-length slings is pretty ideal.
After the lip, I'd recommend running the rope over a big bro or under a VG, for your second Apr 26, 2016
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10+
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10+
Amazing offwidth! Got on this last week armed with 2x #6 camalots and 2x VG9! Overkill for the rack but, I didn't mind having them.



Beta Alert! Don't read further if you want to avoid beta:





First thing to note is to bring a 6 to get to the anchors below pipeline. (ie. when doing the second pitch of birds of prey but, going right instead of left). It's easy climbing up the ramp but, I was happy to be able to protect it and keep my second from swinging like crazy if he slipped climbing the hand crack.

Minimum rack I'd use would be 1 x6 and 1 VG9 (or similarly sized big bro). It was really nice to have 2 6 and 2 VGs though.

I wore a thick long sleeve shirt and a t-shirt on top. Didn't need tape for the hands but, did tape my ankles and left knee. Seemed like it covered what I needed.

Pipeline is pretty much 4 sections:
1. Initial low angle ~10 meters. Pretty easy and #6 fits very nicely. If you have 2x 6s, you can leave one here, otherwise you may want to take it with you for the last section.

2. Getting to the bolt ~7 meters. Turns mostly vertical and widens a bit. I started using a VG9 here. Not as bad as it seems as there are good footholds on the lip of the crack that you can stand up on while smearing your body against the wall. You can leave a VG9 just before it widens too much and use the good footholds on the face to get to the bolt. Then downclimb and bit and get the VG9 (or keep going with a second one if you have it)

3. After the bolt is the business ~6 meters. Not a lot of great footholds anywhere and offwidth technique is actually necessary. Heel toe cams, arm bars and chicken wings through the overhang while pushing up a VG9. Amazing foothold on the right at the end of the overhang to stem off of. If you have a 6 on your harness, you can leave the VG9 near the top of the overhang.

4. The last ramp ~20 meters. Pretty mellow. Use the slabby feet on the right and push a 6 with you the rest of the way. Scramble up the last bit and your done!

You only need big gear and a draw for the bolt. No other cams or nuts are necessary for the offwidth pitch.


Get out there and enjoy it! Oct 9, 2012
sam123456789
  5.10+
sam123456789  
  5.10+
#6 camelots fit "not just good, but good enough." I bumped one #6 BD camelot for most of the way. Would recommend two #6 camelots and a blue big bro. It's many variables of tipped out #6 BD camelots for most of the pitch and beautiful! Just quit reading and do it already! Aug 13, 2011
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
My partner led this climb. He recommends one 9" Valley Giant with 1-2 optional 6" cams (BD C4 #6), or several 7-8" tube chocks. Jul 29, 2009
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Greg, good to see you're poking around this site. Both Pipeline and Freeway are on my list for this summer. I've taken an initial crack at Freeway Lite, but haven't even been to the Sqaw yet. What else did you get up to on that visit? Jul 4, 2008
Peter, yeah, I'm that G. Cameron. Haven't been back to Squamish since that trip in 1979 that included doing Pipeline. By the way, the same trip saw the first ascent of Freeway by my buddies Tom Gibson and Rob Rohn. I love Squamish. Jul 3, 2008
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Greg,

I'm sure this is a long shot, but "G. Cameron" did the FFA and here you are, a Greg Cameron, posting about the route... Am I on to something here? Jul 2, 2008
Mike's stuff is indeed amusing. Jun 5, 2008
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
For a very entertaining read about offwidths in general, and Pipeline in particlar, see Mikey's Offwidth Journal

I had thought that this material had disappeared from the web, but it appears that the URL changed in the last year or two. Nov 21, 2007