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Halley's Comet
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 51
votes
Early Access
Routes in Slhanay
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Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bonsai Tree T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dean Channel, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deep Impact T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dogzilla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flutterby ridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Frayed Ends of Sanity T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free Dimensional T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Godforsaken direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Godforsaken Land T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 |
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Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Game, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gremlin, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hollow Men, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nonsensical S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open project. The Hollow Men-P1 TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Skyline Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Slhanay | 7461 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight Outta' Squampton T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Supernatural T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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White Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.69445, -123.12382 |
| FA: | P1 – Jon Rigg, Brent Goodman, Kaylan Worsnop, Danny Guestrin 2018 P2 – Joe Turley, Ted Marks 1985 |
| Page Views: | 4,064 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Danny Guestrin on Jul 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: FSR CLOSURE
Details
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Halley’s Comet is an excellent splitter crack climb located on the left side of Dog Wall. This prominent line has caught the eye of many Squamish climbers, especially the residents of Valleycliffe who cannot help but gaze at the steep rock faces above their homes. It was first climbed on September 26, 1985 by Joe Turley and Ted Marks. Over the course of a week, they climbed it ground up, mainly on aid, cleaned the route, and then freed the 60 meter crack in two pitches. Joe being the more proficient crack climber of the team, climbed the first pitch and Ted led the second. Joe and Ted were amateur astronomers and named the route after Halley’s Comet because of their anticipation for its upcoming apparition in the following year. Several generations of tat and fixed gear provided evidence of occasional ascents before the crack was reclaimed by our rainforest and fell into obscurity. This classic splitter likely grew over due to its adventurous nature. It was originally approached from the left, which involved 4th class to low 5th scrambling through a vertical forest. Halley’s Comet now has a new first pitch that provides a pleasant and friendly approach to the base of the long finger and hand crack. A bolt was added to the spicy crux slab finish with approval from Joe Turley and Ted Marks.
Pitch 1 (5.7, 30m): Make an exposed traverse left then up a large flake and past several horizontal cracks. A thin traverse left leads to a short wide-hands corner crack ending at a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10c, 60m): Climb the long and beautiful splitter finger and hand crack. Once the crack peters out, clip a bolt and make delicate slab moves to a 2-bolt anchor.
Descent: 3 rappels with a 60m rope. From the top of the route, pull up a hand line to gain the forested terrace. Hike up and right to the rap line. First rappel off a tree anchor and two more rappels from bolted anchors.
Location
Start up the Slhanay trail and about 75 meters before the main rock face turn left onto the climber’s trail to Klootch Buttress. Approximately 30 m past the start of Babies in Kailand, before the trail steepens towards Photophobia, look for a faint trail that contours left. Follow this across a small talus field to the base of Dog Wall. Continue along the base to where the trail ends at a knotted fixed line. Rack up here. Up the fixed line to a ledge system that takes you down to a 2 bolt anchor that marks the start of the route. 20-25 minutes.
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