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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1 – Jon Rigg, Brent Goodman, Kaylan Worsnop, Danny Guestrin 2018 P2 – Joe Turley, Ted Marks 1985
Page Views: 309 total · 90/month
Shared By: Danny Guestrin on Jul 7, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Halley’s Comet is an excellent splitter crack climb located on the left side of Dog Wall. This prominent line has caught the eye of many Squamish climbers, especially the residents of Valleycliffe who cannot help but gaze at the steep rock faces above their homes. It was first climbed on September 26, 1985 by Joe Turley and Ted Marks. Over the course of a week, they climbed it ground up, mainly on aid, cleaned the route, and then freed the 65 meter crack in two pitches. Joe being the more proficient crack climber of the team, climbed the first pitch and Ted led the second. Joe and Ted were amateur astronomers and named the route after Halley’s Comet because of their anticipation for its upcoming apparition in the following year. Several generations of tat and fixed gear provided evidence of occasional ascents before the crack was reclaimed by our rainforest and fell into obscurity. This classic splitter likely grew over due to its adventurous nature. It was originally approached from the left, which involved 4th class to low 5th scrambling through a vertical forest. Halley’s Comet now has a new first pitch that provides a pleasant and friendly approach to the base of the long finger and hand crack. A bolt was added to the spicy crux slab finish with approval from Joe Turley and Ted Marks.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 30m): Make an exposed traverse left then up a large flake and past several horizontal cracks. A thin traverse left leads to a short wide-hands corner crack ending at a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10c, 65m): Climb the long and beautiful splitter finger and hand crack. Once the crack peters out, clip a bolt and make delicate slab moves to a 2-bolt anchor.

Descent: From the top of the route, pull up a hand line to gain the forested terrace. Hike up and right to the rap line. First rappel off a tree anchor and two more rappels from bolted anchors. A 60 meter will just make it but a 70 meter rope is best.

Location

Start up the Slhanay trail and about 75 meters before the main rock face turn left onto the climber’s trail to Klootch Buttress. Approximately 30 m past the start of Babies in Kailand, before the trail steepens towards Photophobia, look for a faint trail that contours left. Follow this across a small talus field to the base of Dog Wall. Continue along the base to where the trail ends at a knotted fixed line. Rack up here. Up the fixed line to a ledge system that takes you down to a 2 bolt anchor that marks the start of the route. 20-25 minutes.

Protection

Nuts, Double set of cams (BD sizes) from 0.3 to 2 and a single 3. Triples from .3 to.75 are useful for those who want to stitch it up.

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