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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: F. Beckey, S. Davis, A. Givler
Page Views: 3,669 total, 44/month
Shared By: Jeremy Frimer on Dec 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Right Wing seeps and remains wet until the beginning of July (unless there's a dry spring). Keep this one for mid to late summer.

P1. Climb Eagles Domain (same start as for Birds of Prey), a finger crack up a slab (5.8) for 60m then move right to the base of the major Right Wing corner system (70m).

P2. A short, technical sport pitch (10c)

P3. The Filibuster. A blockbuster lead, going through all the sizes. Not a move harder than 10b, not a move easier than 10a... for 58m. Prepare for battle.

P4. What's Left... a left-facing beak. Way steeper than it looks. The pitch overhangs 4m and involves a crux kneebar under the flake. Wild!

Location

between Birds of Prey/Pipeline, and The Great Game

Protection

bring everything you own. Triples to 1", doubles to 3", singles to 5".
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
 
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
 
Not the same route if you stop at the mid anchors. Go for the Fillibuster! Those who say Squamish has light ratings haven't done this one. Sep 25, 2017
Ben Sachs  
 
There is now a 2-bolt anchor with chains and 1 protection bolt about half way up the philabuster pitch. Not sure where the pg-13 comes from but perhaps the retro-bolt eliminated it? Great gear the whole way otherwise, and stopping at the new anchor seems like cheating for sure. There is not a stance there. Linking it is a fun, if nauseating, outing. Aug 20, 2016
Hans
Squamish, BC
  5.10d
Hans   Squamish, BC
  5.10d
Very amazing route. For the main dihedral the manly thing to do would be to send it in one enduro pitch. I'm not very manly.

We did the left finish and it's one of the raddest pitches out there. At one point I was kneebaring the overhanging giant beak flake, protected by a BD#5, and then had to pull over onto the flake with a heel hook. Amazing.

I didn't have a 6 which would be nice for the end of this pitch, though this part of the pitch is not really that difficult. I resorted to placing two cams, one on either side of a small chockstone, for the final moves. Jan 26, 2015
kirkadirka
Boulder
 
kirkadirka   Boulder
 
Holy Burl!

This thing is mega classic and pitch for pitch is up there with some of the best shorter multi pitch crack lines I have ever done (rostrum, Wunsch's, etc).

The first two pitches can easily be linked with a 70 meter and no simul-climbing required.

The Filibuster pitch is as good as advertised. Just a little dirtiness still in the bottom bit but should continue to clean up over time. Do it all in one pitch, it is a worthy challenge.

Gear- I brought triples from 0.3 to #1 , doubles to #3, and a single #4. Full set of stoppers. No micro gear needed on this one. I used every single cam on the Filibuster pitch.

Bigger gear would be needed for the standard (left) finish which looks rad, the right hand (10d) finish does not require big gear and is another quality pitch.

Do this line! Sep 4, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10+
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10+
Quite something. Dr. Frimer replaced the original bolted belay half way through The Filibuster after he noticed lichen starting to grow over the route. This is advantageous as it theoretically opens the route up to mere mortals. This also removes the PG-13 rating as there's now a bolt following the anchor. He also fixed a rap route right on Eagle's Domain so the route can now be rapped with a single 60m. New topo here:

squamishclimbing.com/squami…

This route is a bit an epic experience. I don't normally climb 10+ nor is laybacking a strength of mine, so this was probably an ambitious as a goal. Some thoughts:

Eagle's Domain: fun, not a give away for the grade but whatevs. We both scrambled up to a flat stance before the real climbing started annd linked with a 70m. Traverse right along a bit of an undercling 15m before the BOP anchors past a tree to a chain anchor.

10c bolts: Tricky, but short. A0 is an option.

Filibuster p1: 10b laybacking. Get ready to punch it between pieces. You can milk some rests, if you heard there's no remorse on The Filibuster it's not true. Some frail rock and dirt here and there, hopefully that'll clean up over time. 25m

Filibuster p2: 10c (seriously?) laybacking and jamming. Don't get in the crack at the beginning, layback it. There are several hidden cracks, take gear ranging the gamut, even micro if you want. I definitely placed a purple Metolius but I'm also meek, so take that as you will. Felt hard to me. 30m.

Last pitch: We climbed the 10d fingers variation rather than buy a #5 and #6. I stemmed between the two variations until I could commit with my left hand to a jug flake that is part of a block that will probably go one day. Pull the bulge to more hard moves, still laybacking. Hero moves to the anchor. Sustained, steep and exposed. ~25m.

Needs more traffic to clean out the cracks more, so get out there. I gave it 4 stars because as far as I know there's nothing quite like it. Took doubles to #4 C4 with some triples in fingers for Eagle's Domain. Sep 17, 2012