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Frayed Ends of Sanity
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Slhanay
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bonsai Tree T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dean Channel, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deep Impact T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flutterby ridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free Dimensional T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Godforsaken direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Game, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hollow Men, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nonsensical S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open project. The Hollow Men-P1 TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Skyline Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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White Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | P4: Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, 1991. P5: Greg Foweraker, Peder Ourom, Hamish Fraser, 1994. P6: Marc Bourdon, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 2,225 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The position of this climb is amazing as it climbs the extremely exposed, steep arete above and left of Pipeline. You can see it from miles away as the left margin of white granite in the center of Slhanay. The crux pitch is bouldery and, at times, sharp from all the quartzite in the Slhanay granite.
P1-2: 5.8 crack on the slab, concurrent with Birds of Prey/Eagle's Domain. I think we linked these two but I'm not sure.
P3 (10b): A corner crack and exposed leftward traverse, same as for Birds of Prey.
P4 (10c): A couple of bolts and gear lead back up and rightward past an undercling and final traverse to the anchor.
P5 (11a): A steep, airy bolted pitch leads up the first part of the arete via flakes to a super exposed belay station below the crux.
P6 (12c): More steep and delightfully (frightfully?) exposed arete climbing with two distinct boulder problems finishes the climb. The rock is sharp on this pitch; I core-shot both our lead rope and one of my fingers on the razor-sharp quartz crystals. Take care especially with how the rope runs at the top of the pitch, as that's where the incident with our rope occurred when I slid off working out the top crux.
P1-2: 5.8 crack on the slab, concurrent with Birds of Prey/Eagle's Domain. I think we linked these two but I'm not sure.
P3 (10b): A corner crack and exposed leftward traverse, same as for Birds of Prey.
P4 (10c): A couple of bolts and gear lead back up and rightward past an undercling and final traverse to the anchor.
P5 (11a): A steep, airy bolted pitch leads up the first part of the arete via flakes to a super exposed belay station below the crux.
P6 (12c): More steep and delightfully (frightfully?) exposed arete climbing with two distinct boulder problems finishes the climb. The rock is sharp on this pitch; I core-shot both our lead rope and one of my fingers on the razor-sharp quartz crystals. Take care especially with how the rope runs at the top of the pitch, as that's where the incident with our rope occurred when I slid off working out the top crux.
Location
The route starts on Birds of Prey on the obvious, popular 5.8 slab crack left of where the trail meets Slhanay. It departs Birds of Prey after the 5.9 traverse on P3, climbing generally up and right past mixed bolts and gear. It may be possible to rap the route, but two ropes are likely needed and as such it's probably faster to just top out and walk off.
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