All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw)
Frayed Ends of Sanity
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||P4: Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, 1991. P5: Greg Foweraker, Peder Ourom, Hamish Fraser, 1994. P6: Marc Bourdon, 2008|
|Page Views:||371 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionThe position of this climb is amazing as it climbs the extremely exposed, steep arete above and left of Pipeline. You can see it from miles away as the left margin of white granite in the center of Slhanay. The crux pitch is bouldery and, at times, sharp from all the quartzite in the Slhanay granite.
P1-2: 5.8 crack on the slab, concurrent with Birds of Prey/Eagle's Domain. I think we linked these two but I'm not sure.
P3 (10b): A corner crack and exposed leftward traverse, same as for Birds of Prey.
P4 (10c): A couple of bolts and gear lead back up and rightward past an undercling and final traverse to the anchor.
P5 (11a): A steep, airy bolted pitch leads up the first part of the arete via flakes to a super exposed belay station below the crux.
P6 (12c): More steep and delightfully (frightfully?) exposed arete climbing with two distinct boulder problems finishes the climb. The rock is sharp on this pitch; I core-shot both our lead rope and one of my fingers on the razor-sharp quartz crystals. Take care especially with how the rope runs at the top of the pitch, as that's where the incident with our rope occurred when I slid off working out the top crux.
LocationThe route starts on Birds of Prey on the obvious, popular 5.8 slab crack left of where the trail meets Slhanay. It departs Birds of Prey after the 5.9 traverse on P3, climbing generally up and right past mixed bolts and gear. It may be possible to rap the route, but two ropes are likely needed and as such it's probably faster to just top out and walk off.
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