Type: Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: P4: Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, 1991. P5: Greg Foweraker, Peder Ourom, Hamish Fraser, 1994. P6: Marc Bourdon, 2008
Page Views: 592 total · 14/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

The position of this climb is amazing as it climbs the extremely exposed, steep arete above and left of Pipeline. You can see it from miles away as the left margin of white granite in the center of Slhanay. The crux pitch is bouldery and, at times, sharp from all the quartzite in the Slhanay granite.

P1-2: 5.8 crack on the slab, concurrent with Birds of Prey/Eagle's Domain. I think we linked these two but I'm not sure.

P3 (10b): A corner crack and exposed leftward traverse, same as for Birds of Prey.

P4 (10c): A couple of bolts and gear lead back up and rightward past an undercling and final traverse to the anchor.

P5 (11a): A steep, airy bolted pitch leads up the first part of the arete via flakes to a super exposed belay station below the crux.

P6 (12c): More steep and delightfully (frightfully?) exposed arete climbing with two distinct boulder problems finishes the climb. The rock is sharp on this pitch; I core-shot both our lead rope and one of my fingers on the razor-sharp quartz crystals. Take care especially with how the rope runs at the top of the pitch, as that's where the incident with our rope occurred when I slid off working out the top crux.

Location

The route starts on Birds of Prey on the obvious, popular 5.8 slab crack left of where the trail meets Slhanay. It departs Birds of Prey after the 5.9 traverse on P3, climbing generally up and right past mixed bolts and gear. It may be possible to rap the route, but two ropes are likely needed and as such it's probably faster to just top out and walk off.

Protection

Bolts for the hardest pitch, but standard gear is required for the rest, although perhaps the .11a arete pitch is fully bolted as well. I can't recall if the initial belays are bolted or not, but once on the arete they are.

Photos

Tim Bonnell  
 
This is an excellent route with unbelievable position.
The description indicates the 11a pitch is bolted. While there are bolts (3 of them I believe), you will definitely need gear (SR to 3").
It's also worthwhile to note that you can rap after the 11a pitch with a 70m rope, but the 1st rap (to the ramp on Pipeline) is slightly over-hanging and probably 34m so be very careful. Aug 5, 2015
Drewsky
  5.12c
Drewsky  
  5.12c
Ah, I couldn't remember whether one needed gear for that pitch or not. Thanks for clarifying. It's been a couple years (4 or 5?!) since I did the climb, but I just spent a couple of days climbing up there and looking at that route again and thought I'd post up what I remembered. Aug 5, 2015