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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Harry Young, Robin Barley 2010 FFA: Glenn Woloski, Harry Young 2010
Page Views: 385 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 29, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This climb offers 5 pitches of excellent, fairly burly crack climbing. With the exception of a single bolt-protected move, all of the climbing is 5.10.
P1 (10c) : Climb a crack past a stump and left move left into a right facing coner to belay on bolts (20m)
P2 (10c): Continue up the corner and then move right past some suspect rock to belay at another set of bolts (25m)
P3 (11a): Head up an excellent left-facing corner and then make a slab move left past a bolt to gain another left facing corner. Continue up the corner, trending left, and keep an eye out for a bolted anchor. It's easy to miss this anchor (30m)
P4 (10d): A long, burly pitch. Continue trending left up the left facing corner as it widens. A #5 cam comes in handy on this pitch (30m).
P5 (5.9): Step right and enter the long splitter hand crack....one of the better 5.9s in Squamish. (30m).

Descent: From the top, move right about 20m to a rap station. 5 raps with 60m will get you down

Location [Suggest Change]

Follow the normal trail up to the Slahany, but branch left before reaching the main part of the cliff. The route starts just left of a bolted pitch (start of White Feather). If you hit Photophobia you've gone too far

Protection [Suggest Change]

A SR to 5" with doubles of purple/green/red camalots

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