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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Harry Young, Robin Barley 2010 FFA: Glenn Woloski, Harry Young 2010
Page Views: 314 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 29, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

This climb offers 5 pitches of excellent, fairly burly crack climbing. With the exception of a single bolt-protected move, all of the climbing is 5.10.
P1 (10c) : Climb a crack past a stump and left move left into a right facing coner to belay on bolts (20m)
P2 (10c): Continue up the corner and then move right past some suspect rock to belay at another set of bolts (25m)
P3 (11a): Head up an excellent left-facing corner and then make a slab move left past a bolt to gain another left facing corner. Continue up the corner, trending left, and keep an eye out for a bolted anchor. It's easy to miss this anchor (30m)
P4 (10d): A long, burly pitch. Continue trending left up the left facing corner as it widens. A #5 cam comes in handy on this pitch (30m).
P5 (5.9): Step right and enter the long splitter hand crack....one of the better 5.9s in Squamish. (30m).

Descent: From the top, move right about 20m to a rap station. 5 raps with 60m will get you down

Location

Follow the normal trail up to the Slahany, but branch left before reaching the main part of the cliff. The route starts just left of a bolted pitch (start of White Feather). If you hit Photophobia you've gone too far

Protection

A SR to 5" with doubles of purple/green/red camalots

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