Squeamishness
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.6945, -123.12156 |
| FA: | Harry Young, Robin Barley 2010 FFA: Glenn Woloski, Harry Young 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,877 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Bonnell on Aug 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This climb offers 5 pitches of excellent, fairly burly crack climbing. With the exception of a single bolt-protected move, all of the climbing is 5.10.
P1 (10c) : Climb a crack past a stump and left move left into a right facing coner to belay on bolts (20m)
P2 (10c): Continue up the corner and then move right past some suspect rock to belay at another set of bolts (25m)
P3 (11a): Head up an excellent left-facing corner and then make a slab move left past a bolt to gain another left facing corner. Continue up the corner, trending left, and keep an eye out for a bolted anchor. It's easy to miss this anchor (30m)
P4 (10d): A long, burly pitch. Continue trending left up the left facing corner as it widens. A #5 cam comes in handy on this pitch (30m).
P5 (5.9): Step right and enter the long splitter hand crack....one of the better 5.9s in Squamish. (30m).
Descent: From the top, move right about 20m to a rap station. 5 raps with 60m will get you down



2 Comments